{"id":"https://openalex.org/W657181085","doi":null,"title":"Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 1675-1791","display_name":"Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 1675-1791","publication_year":2001,"publication_date":"2001-01-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W657181085","mag":"657181085"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"pmh:oai:muse.jhu.edu:/book/68600","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://muse.jhu.edu/pub/4/monograph/book/68600","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4377196299","display_name":"Project Muse (Johns Hopkins University)","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/I145311948","host_organization_name":"Johns Hopkins University","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/I145311948"],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"repository"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"submittedVersion","is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"","raw_type":"text"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":[],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5027694450","display_name":"Clare Haru Crowston","orcid":null,"observed_orcids":[]},"institutions":[],"countries":[],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Clare Haru Crowston","raw_affiliation_strings":["History"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"History","institution_ids":[]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":0,"institutions_distinct_count":0,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5027694450"],"corresponding_institution_ids":[],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":47.63,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":51,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.99438202,"is_in_top_1_percent":true,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":93,"max":98},"biblio":{"volume":null,"issue":null,"first_page":null,"last_page":null},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.8026999831199646,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.8026999831199646,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12909","display_name":"French Historical and Cultural Studies","score":0.07519999891519547,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1202","display_name":"History"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12275","display_name":"Gender and Feminist Studies","score":0.05290000140666962,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/3318","display_name":"Gender Studies"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/33","display_name":"Social Sciences"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/women-s-guilds","display_name":"women's guilds","score":0.7620000243186951},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/tailors-guild","display_name":"tailors' guild","score":0.7289999723434448},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/women-s-employment","display_name":"women's employment","score":0.5680000185966492},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/femininity","display_name":"femininity","score":0.7179999947547913},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion","display_name":"fashion","score":0.6570000052452087},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/apparel-manufacturing","display_name":"apparel manufacturing","score":0.6290000081062317},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/women-s-economic-opportunities","display_name":"women's economic opportunities","score":0.5809999704360962},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/legal-status-of-women","display_name":"women's legal status","score":0.6990000009536743},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/single-women","display_name":"single women","score":0.5350000262260437},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/early-modern-france","display_name":"early modern France","score":0.6240000128746033},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/ancien-regime","display_name":"Ancien R\u00e9gime","score":0.6620000004768372},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/absolute-monarchy","display_name":"absolute monarchy","score":0.5120000243186951},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/women-s-labor-history","display_name":"women's labor history","score":0.4350000023841858}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C61790302","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q614424","display_name":"Guild","level":3,"score":0.8849809169769287},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2780510313","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q178706","display_name":"Institution","level":2,"score":0.6262670159339905},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C530175646","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11460","display_name":"Clothing","level":2,"score":0.6256447434425354},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778061430","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q188823","display_name":"Scholarship","level":2,"score":0.5793415904045105},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778868352","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q866081","display_name":"Femininity","level":2,"score":0.5747654438018799},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2781127519","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q43637","display_name":"Monopoly","level":2,"score":0.5442637801170349},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C162462552","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q134307","display_name":"Portrait","level":2,"score":0.49030402302742004},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C94625758","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7163","display_name":"Politics","level":2,"score":0.4768734574317932},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C17744445","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36442","display_name":"Political science","level":0,"score":0.42507028579711914},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107993555","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1662673","display_name":"Gender studies","level":1,"score":0.4222889542579651},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.3626197874546051},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.3199560046195984},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199539241","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7748","display_name":"Law","level":1,"score":0.2692714035511017},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C52119013","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q50637","display_name":"Art history","level":1,"score":0.17347502708435059},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C162324750","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q8134","display_name":"Economics","level":0,"score":0.11705514788627625},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C34447519","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q179522","display_name":"Market economy","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C86803240","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q420","display_name":"Biology","level":0,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C18903297","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7150","display_name":"Ecology","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C185933670","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q52105","display_name":"Habitat","level":2,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":4,"locations":[{"id":"pmh:oai:muse.jhu.edu:/book/68600","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://muse.jhu.edu/pub/4/monograph/book/68600","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4377196299","display_name":"Project Muse (Johns Hopkins University)","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/I145311948","host_organization_name":"Johns Hopkins University","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/I145311948"],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"repository"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"submittedVersion","is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"","raw_type":"text"},{"id":"pmh:oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-009321483","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:443/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=009321483&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA","pdf_url":null,"source":null,"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"submittedVersion","is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":null,"raw_type":"text"},{"id":"pmh:oai:bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr:p::usmarcdef_0000788803","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0000788803","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4306463122","display_name":"Duke University Press eBooks","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310315698","host_organization_name":"Duke University Press","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310315698","https://openalex.org/P4310315572"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Duke University Press","Duke University"],"type":"ebook platform"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"submittedVersion","is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"","raw_type":"printed monograph"},{"id":"mag:657181085","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"http://ci.nii.ac.jp/ncid/BA58121503","pdf_url":null,"source":null,"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":null,"is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":null,"raw_type":null}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[{"display_name":"Gender equality","id":"https://metadata.un.org/sdg/5","score":0.6025999784469604}],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"pdf":false,"grobid_xml":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":0,"referenced_works":[],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W2016238269","https://openalex.org/W587350345","https://openalex.org/W2560605361","https://openalex.org/W2093269642","https://openalex.org/W4386627742","https://openalex.org/W4244831992","https://openalex.org/W2057088931","https://openalex.org/W4401935296","https://openalex.org/W7036267570","https://openalex.org/W2159016162"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"Winner":[0],"of":[1,11,20,29,56,93,190,207,249,282],"the":[2,8,17,21,27,33,45,54,57,85,94,117,134,141,153,172,174,183,247,261],"2002":[3],"Berkshire":[4,9],"Prize,":[5],"presented":[6],"by":[7,202,222,278],"Conference":[10],"Women":[12,15,259],"Historians":[13],"\n\nFabricating":[14],"examines":[16],"social":[18,253],"institution":[19],"seamstresses\u2019":[22,118],"guild":[23,119,193,271],"in":[24,44,80,129,145,240,272],"France":[25,146],"from":[26],"time":[28],"Louis":[30],"XIV":[31],"to":[32,78,113,177,224,264],"Revolution.":[34],"In":[35],"contrast":[36],"with":[37,60,133,159,196],"previous":[38],"scholarship":[39],"on":[40],"women":[41,148],"and":[42,63,72,75,103,115,124,166,179,186,192,198,227,238,255,268,280,284,288,292,294],"gender":[43],"early":[46,241,295],"modern":[47,188,242,296],"period,":[48],"Clare":[49],"Haru":[50],"Crowston":[51,88,127],"asserts":[52],"that":[53,110],"rise":[55],"absolute":[58],"state,":[59],"its":[61,100,131],"centralizing":[62],"unifying":[64],"tendencies,":[65],"could":[66],"actually":[67],"increase":[68],"women\u2019s":[69,209,236,287],"economic,":[70],"social,":[71],"legal":[73],"opportunities":[74],"allow":[76],"them":[77],"thrive":[79],"corporate":[81],"organizations":[82],"such":[83,97],"as":[84,98,120],"guild.":[86],"Yet":[87],"also":[89,170],"reveals":[90],"paradoxical":[91],"consequences":[92],"guild\u2019s":[95],"success,":[96],"how":[99,182,214],"growing":[101],"membership":[102],"visibility":[104],"ultimately":[105],"fostered":[106],"an":[107,122],"essentialized":[108],"femininity":[109],"was":[111],"tied":[112],"fashion":[114,167,291],"appearances.\n\nSituating":[116],"both":[121],"economic":[123,251],"political":[125,297],"institution,":[126],"explores":[128],"particular":[130],"relationship":[132],"all-male":[135],"tailors\u2019":[136],"guild,":[137],"which":[138],"had":[139],"dominated":[140],"clothing":[142,244],"fabrication":[143],"trade":[144],"until":[147],"challenged":[149],"this":[150,266],"monopoly":[151],"during":[152],"seventeenth":[154],"century.":[155],"Combining":[156],"archival":[157],"evidence":[158],"visual":[160],"images,":[161],"technical":[162],"literature,":[163],"philosophical":[164],"treatises,":[165],"journals,":[168],"she":[169],"investigates":[171],"techniques":[173],"seamstresses":[175,216],"used":[176],"make":[178],"sell":[180],"clothing,":[181],"garments":[184],"reflected":[185],"shaped":[187],"conceptions":[189],"femininity,":[191],"officials\u2019":[194],"interactions":[195],"royal":[197],"municipal":[199],"authorities.":[200],"Finally,":[201],"offering":[203],"a":[204],"revealing":[205],"portrait":[206],"these":[208],"private":[210],"lives\u2014explaining,":[211],"for":[212],"instance,":[213],"many":[215],"went":[217],"beyond":[218],"traditional":[219],"female":[220,270],"boundaries":[221],"choosing":[223],"remain":[225],"single":[226],"establish":[228],"their":[229],"own":[230],"households\u2014Crowston":[231],"challenges":[232],"existing":[233],"ideas":[234],"about":[235],"work":[237],"family":[239],"Europe.\n\nAlthough":[243],"lay":[245],"at":[246],"heart":[248],"French":[250,283],"production,":[252],"distinction,":[254],"cultural":[256],"identity,":[257],"Fabricating":[258],"is":[260],"first":[262],"book":[263],"investigate":[265],"immense":[267],"archetypal":[269],"depth.":[273],"It":[274],"will":[275],"be":[276],"welcomed":[277],"students":[279],"scholars":[281],"European":[285],"history,":[286,290],"labor":[289],"technology,":[293],"economy.":[298]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2024,"cited_by_count":4},{"year":2023,"cited_by_count":2},{"year":2022,"cited_by_count":3},{"year":2021,"cited_by_count":3},{"year":2020,"cited_by_count":2},{"year":2019,"cited_by_count":4},{"year":2018,"cited_by_count":4},{"year":2016,"cited_by_count":3},{"year":2015,"cited_by_count":5},{"year":2014,"cited_by_count":2},{"year":2013,"cited_by_count":2}],"updated_date":"2026-10-25T09:29:13.331239","created_date":"2016-06-24T00:00:00"}
