{"id":"https://openalex.org/W4415046178","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722","title":"Iris van Herpen: Tools","display_name":"Iris van Herpen: Tools","publication_year":2025,"publication_date":"2025-08-08","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W4415046178","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722"},"language":"nl","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722","is_oa":true,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722","pdf_url":"https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722?needAccess=true","source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S123680841","display_name":"TEXTILE","issn_l":"1475-9756","issn":["1475-9756","1751-8350"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-scientific","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-40","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311811","host_organization_name":"Berg Publishers","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311811","https://openalex.org/P4310311825"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Berg Publishers","Bloomsbury Publishing plc"],"type":"journal"},"license":"cc-by-nc-nd","license_id":"https://openalex.org/licenses/cc-by-nc-nd","version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"TEXTILE","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":true,"oa_status":"hybrid","oa_url":"https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722?needAccess=true","any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5039222474","display_name":"Jessica Hemmings","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7517-6102","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7517-6102"]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I135606841","display_name":"Oslo School of Architecture and Design","ror":"https://ror.org/04a7x2s11","country_code":"NO","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I135606841"]},{"id":"https://openalex.org/I881427289","display_name":"University of Gothenburg","ror":"https://ror.org/01tm6cn81","country_code":"SE","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I881427289"]}],"countries":["NO","SE"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Jessica Hemmings","raw_affiliation_strings":["Budapest ","PARSE at HDK-Valand , University of Gothenburg , Professor II at the Oslo School of Architecture"],"raw_orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7517-6102","affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Budapest ","institution_ids":[]},{"raw_affiliation_string":"PARSE at HDK-Valand , University of Gothenburg , Professor II at the Oslo School of Architecture","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I135606841","https://openalex.org/I881427289"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":2,"institutions_distinct_count":2,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5039222474"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I135606841","https://openalex.org/I881427289"],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":6.893,"has_fulltext":true,"cited_by_count":1,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.96496025,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":93,"max":96},"biblio":{"volume":"23","issue":"3-4","first_page":"902","last_page":"915"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.8184000253677368,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.8184000253677368,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13413","display_name":"Cultural and Historical Studies","score":0.1565999984741211,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13316","display_name":"Crafts, Textile, and Design","score":0.022299999371170998,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/iris-van-herpen","display_name":"Iris van Herpen","score":1.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-design","display_name":"fashion design","score":0.7440000176429749},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/tools","display_name":"tools","score":0.6779999732971191},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/skilled-practice","display_name":"skilled practice","score":0.6639999747276306},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/tim-ingold","display_name":"Tim Ingold","score":0.9670000076293945},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/digital-fabrication","display_name":"digital fabrication","score":0.6100000143051147},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/biomimetics","display_name":"biomimetics","score":0.8799999952316284},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/textiles","display_name":"textiles","score":0.8040000200271606},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/designer-interview","display_name":"designer interview","score":0.5070000290870667}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776997653","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q149010","display_name":"Trilogy","level":2,"score":0.6018000245094299},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C153349607","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36649","display_name":"Visual arts","level":1,"score":0.3919999897480011},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2779503344","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q5973514","display_name":"IRIS (biosensor)","level":3,"score":0.385699987411499},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C41008148","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21198","display_name":"Computer science","level":0,"score":0.3483999967575073},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C154945302","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11660","display_name":"Artificial intelligence","level":1,"score":0.33820000290870667},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107038049","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986","display_name":"Aesthetics","level":1,"score":0.29899999499320984},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.29420000314712524},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C52119013","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q50637","display_name":"Art history","level":1,"score":0.251800000667572},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C111472728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q9471","display_name":"Epistemology","level":1,"score":0.2513999938964844},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C127413603","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11023","display_name":"Engineering","level":0,"score":0.2506999969482422}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":1,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722","is_oa":true,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722","pdf_url":"https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722?needAccess=true","source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S123680841","display_name":"TEXTILE","issn_l":"1475-9756","issn":["1475-9756","1751-8350"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-scientific","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-40","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311811","host_organization_name":"Berg Publishers","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311811","https://openalex.org/P4310311825"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Berg Publishers","Bloomsbury Publishing plc"],"type":"journal"},"license":"cc-by-nc-nd","license_id":"https://openalex.org/licenses/cc-by-nc-nd","version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"TEXTILE","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":{"id":"doi:10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722","is_oa":true,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722","pdf_url":"https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/14759756.2025.2542722?needAccess=true","source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S123680841","display_name":"TEXTILE","issn_l":"1475-9756","issn":["1475-9756","1751-8350"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-scientific","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-40","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311811","host_organization_name":"Berg Publishers","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311811","https://openalex.org/P4310311825"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Berg Publishers","Bloomsbury Publishing plc"],"type":"journal"},"license":"cc-by-nc-nd","license_id":"https://openalex.org/licenses/cc-by-nc-nd","version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"TEXTILE","raw_type":"journal-article"},"sustainable_development_goals":[],"sustainable_development_goals_aurora":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/F4320322581","display_name":"Vetenskapsr\u00e5det","ror":"https://ror.org/03zttf063"}],"has_content":{"pdf":true,"grobid_xml":true},"content_urls":{"pdf":"https://content.openalex.org/works/W4415046178.pdf","grobid_xml":"https://content.openalex.org/works/W4415046178.grobid-xml"},"referenced_works_count":7,"referenced_works":["https://openalex.org/W2024002744","https://openalex.org/W2180552828","https://openalex.org/W2609099981","https://openalex.org/W2912044477","https://openalex.org/W2970991584","https://openalex.org/W3111450609","https://openalex.org/W3175178653"],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W4200534602","https://openalex.org/W3113867616","https://openalex.org/W7019052800","https://openalex.org/W4213145966","https://openalex.org/W7172296032","https://openalex.org/W2999795143","https://openalex.org/W3211703750","https://openalex.org/W7216963167","https://openalex.org/W3151938119","https://openalex.org/W2951532287"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"Dutch":[0],"fashion":[1],"designer":[2,86],"Iris":[3],"van":[4,25,63,111,125,132],"Herpen":[5],"regularly":[6],"deploys":[7],"the":[8,16,31,37,46,85],"tools":[9,104],"of":[10,18,59,95,99,117,120],"analogue":[11],"and":[12,78,122,129],"digital":[13],"making":[14,27,47],"in":[15,93],"creation":[17],"her":[19,51,75],"collections.":[20],"This":[21],"article":[22,80],"addresses":[23],"how":[24],"Herpen\u2019s":[26,64],"practice":[28],"moves":[29],"beyond":[30],"familiar":[32],"hand/machine":[33],"dichotomy":[34],"inherited":[35],"from":[36,55,74,84],"Industrial":[38],"Revolution":[39],"to":[40,66],"consider,":[41],"where":[42],"information":[43],"is":[44,114],"available,":[45],"that":[48],"literally":[49],"underpins":[50],"practice.":[52],"Drawing":[53],"examples":[54],"four":[56],"recurring":[57],"themes":[58],"inspiration":[60],"apparent":[61],"across":[62],"collections":[65],"date\u2014futuristic":[67],"craft,":[68],"water,":[69],"cloth":[70],"(and":[71],"its":[72],"absence":[73],"early":[76],"work)":[77],"biomimicry\u2014the":[79],"uses":[81],"firsthand":[82],"accounts":[83],"available":[87],"through":[88,103],"fashion\u2019s":[89],"grey":[90],"literature":[91],"considered":[92],"light":[94],"Tim":[96],"Ingold\u2019s":[97],"recognition":[98],"\u201cskilled":[100],"practice\u201d":[101],"occurring":[102],"be":[105],"they":[106],"hands":[107],"or":[108],"machines.":[109],"\u201cIris":[110,124,131],"Herpen:":[112,126,133],"Tools\u201d":[113],"part":[115],"two":[116],"a":[118],"trilogy":[119],"articles":[121],"follows":[123],"The":[127],"Body\u201d":[128],"precedes":[130],"Collaboration\u201d.":[134]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2026,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-09-23T05:00:35.095934","created_date":"2025-10-11T00:00:00"}