{"id":"https://openalex.org/W4401030686","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1353/tmj.2021.a932829","title":"Not African? Contested Origins of Wax Print and Its High-Fashion Appropriation","display_name":"Not African? Contested Origins of Wax Print and Its High-Fashion Appropriation","publication_year":2021,"publication_date":"2021-01-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W4401030686","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1353/tmj.2021.a932829"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1353/tmj.2021.a932829","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1353/tmj.2021.a932829","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"http://dx.doi.org/10.1353/tmj.2021.a932829","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4404675759","display_name":"Textile Museum journal.","issn_l":"0083-7407","issn":["0083-7407","2475-8825"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":null,"host_organization_name":null,"host_organization_lineage":[],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"The Textile Museum Journal","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","is_traditional":true,"indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5025192201","display_name":"Boatema Boateng","orcid":null,"observed_orcids":[]},"institutions":[],"countries":[],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Boatema Boateng","raw_affiliation_strings":[],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":0,"institutions_distinct_count":0,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5025192201"],"corresponding_institution_ids":[],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":2.2016,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":1,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.92045974,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":88,"max":93},"biblio":{"volume":"48","issue":"1","first_page":"118","last_page":"137"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9976000189781189,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9976000189781189,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T14395","display_name":"African history and culture studies","score":0.0010999999940395355,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/3314","display_name":"Anthropology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/33","display_name":"Social Sciences"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13907","display_name":"Social Issues and Sustainability","score":0.00019999999494757503,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/3316","display_name":"Cultural Studies"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/33","display_name":"Social Sciences"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/cultural-appropriation","display_name":"cultural appropriation","score":0.972000002861023},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/stella-mccartney","display_name":"Stella McCartney","score":0.8429999947547913},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/african-textiles","display_name":"African textiles","score":0.6740000247955322},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/kente-cloth","display_name":"Kente cloth","score":0.8479999899864197},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/asante","display_name":"Asante","score":0.7960000038146973},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/cote-d-ivoire","display_name":"C\u00f4te d'Ivoire","score":0.7459999918937683}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776931063","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q4781738","display_name":"Appropriation","level":2,"score":0.9002403020858765},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C153033020","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q124695","display_name":"Wax","level":2,"score":0.6136917471885681},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.3683549165725708},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107038049","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986","display_name":"Aesthetics","level":1,"score":0.3432312309741974},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.341272234916687},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C153349607","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36649","display_name":"Visual arts","level":1,"score":0.3224572241306305},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C41895202","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q8162","display_name":"Linguistics","level":1,"score":0.14283552765846252},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C138885662","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q5891","display_name":"Philosophy","level":0,"score":0.12553101778030396},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C192562407","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q228736","display_name":"Materials science","level":0,"score":0.07223233580589294},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C159985019","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q181790","display_name":"Composite material","level":1,"score":0.06413537263870239}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":2,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1353/tmj.2021.a932829","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1353/tmj.2021.a932829","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"http://dx.doi.org/10.1353/tmj.2021.a932829","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4404675759","display_name":"Textile Museum journal.","issn_l":"0083-7407","issn":["0083-7407","2475-8825"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":null,"host_organization_name":null,"host_organization_lineage":[],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"The Textile Museum Journal","raw_type":"journal-article"},{"id":"pmh:oai:muse.jhu.edu:/article/932829","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://muse.jhu.edu/pub/15/article/932829","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4377196299","display_name":"Project Muse (Johns Hopkins University)","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/I145311948","host_organization_name":"Johns Hopkins University","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/I145311948"],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"repository"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"submittedVersion","is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"","raw_type":"text"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":0,"referenced_works":[],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W7162639821","https://openalex.org/W1980238155","https://openalex.org/W2409078268","https://openalex.org/W3184341026","https://openalex.org/W4252228518","https://openalex.org/W7044031808","https://openalex.org/W2793000518","https://openalex.org/W2126494969","https://openalex.org/W3000122768","https://openalex.org/W2592735312"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"Abstract:":[0],"In":[1],"2017,":[2],"British":[3],"fashion":[4,60],"designer":[5],"Stella":[6],"McCartney\u2019s":[7],"2018":[8],"spring":[9],"collection,":[10],"featuring":[11],"clothing":[12],"in":[13,43,54,66,116,119,197,215,257,267,289,300],"prints":[14,42,93,148,266],"widely":[15],"regarded":[16],"as":[17,23,103,153,170,172],"African,":[18],"was":[19,49],"criticized":[20],"by":[21,101],"commentators":[22],"an":[24],"act":[25],"of":[26,38,57,70,76,91,112,127,137,146,155,161,177,186,193,227,235,246,271,277,287,293,306],"cultural":[27,204],"appropriation.":[28],"Similar":[29],"criticism":[30],"emerged":[31],"two":[32,163,295],"years":[33],"later":[34],"when":[35],"the":[36,51,55,59,71,74,79,87,96,110,113,120,125,135,143,162,166,175,178,183,191,203,225,232,242,248,260,265,268,274,285,290,294,301,304],"House":[37],"Dior":[39,275],"used":[40,115],"African":[41,97,104,194,216,307],"its":[44,130,211],"Resort":[45],"2020":[46],"collection.":[47],"This":[48],"despite":[50],"fact":[52],"that":[53,81,209,254],"case":[56,126,136],"Dior,":[58],"house":[61],"worked":[62],"with":[63,224],"textile":[64],"designers":[65],"C\u00f4te":[67],"d\u2019Ivoire.":[68],"Some":[69],"responses":[72],"to":[73,109,251,259],"charges":[75],"appropriation":[77,288,305],"included":[78],"claim":[80],"\u201cAfrican":[82],"fabric\u2026isn\u2019t":[83],"African\u201d":[84],"and":[85,99,129,149,165,202,206,213,218,220,237,239,244,273],"noted":[86],"Dutch-mediated":[88],"Indonesian":[89],"origins":[90,185],"wax":[92,147,198],"made":[94],"for":[95],"market":[98,195],"claimed":[100],"many":[102],"culture;":[105],"they":[106,168],"also":[107],"pointed":[108],"provenance":[111],"fabrics":[114,152],"both":[117],"collections":[118,164,296],"Dutch":[121],"corporation,":[122],"Vlisco":[123],"(in":[124,134],"McCartney),":[128],"Ivorian":[131],"subsidiary,":[132],"Uniwax":[133],"Dior).":[138],"Yet":[139],"other":[140],"voices":[141],"questioned":[142],"relative":[144],"merits":[145],"handmade":[150,228],"indigenous":[151],"markers":[154],"\u201cAfrican-ness.\u201d":[156],"Drawing":[157,222],"on":[158,174],"media":[159],"coverage":[160],"debates":[167,302],"generated,":[169],"well":[171],"scholarship":[173],"history":[176,226],"prints,":[179],"this":[180],"article":[181,249],"explores":[182],"contested":[184,261],"these":[187],"textiles.":[188,308],"It":[189],"considers":[190],"labor":[192],"women":[196],"print\u2019s":[199],"aesthetic":[200],"development,":[201],"contexts":[205],"consumption":[207,243],"practices":[208,238],"inform":[210],"circulation":[212,245],"value":[214],"societies":[217],"markets":[219],"beyond.":[221],"comparisons":[223],"kente":[229],"cloth":[230],"from":[231],"Asante":[233],"people":[234],"Ghana,":[236],"values":[240],"around":[241,264,303],"kente,":[247],"seeks":[250],"identify":[252],"criteria":[253],"can":[255],"guide":[256],"responding":[258],"origin":[262],"claims":[263,286],"McCartney":[269],"collection":[270,276],"2017":[272],"2019.":[278],"Using":[279],"those":[280],"criteria,":[281],"it":[282],"then":[283],"examines":[284],"specific":[291],"instances":[292],"and,":[297],"more":[298],"generally,":[299]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2023,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-09-11T09:22:31.653822","created_date":"2024-07-27T00:00:00"}
