{"id":"https://openalex.org/W4389329634","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273172","title":"\u2018New\u2019, \u2018modern\u2019 and \u2018fake\u2019. Embodying different standards of quality in \u2018non-precious jewel\u2019 manufacturing in Northern Italy during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries","display_name":"\u2018New\u2019, \u2018modern\u2019 and \u2018fake\u2019. Embodying different standards of quality in \u2018non-precious jewel\u2019 manufacturing in Northern Italy during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries","publication_year":2023,"publication_date":"2023-05-04","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W4389329634","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273172"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273172","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273172","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273172","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4210196589","display_name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","issn_l":"2373-5171","issn":["2373-5171","2373-518X"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":true,"listed_in":["cwts-core","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-20","russia-white-list-3","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320547","host_organization_name":"Taylor & Francis","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320547","https://openalex.org/P4310320449"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Taylor & Francis","Informa"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5002361465","display_name":"Barbara Bettoni","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2748-6683","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2748-6683"]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I79940851","display_name":"University of Brescia","ror":"https://ror.org/02q2d2610","country_code":"IT","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I79940851"]}],"countries":["IT"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Barbara Bettoni","raw_affiliation_strings":["Department of Economics and Management, Universit\u00e0 degli Studi di Brescia, Brescia, Italy"],"raw_orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2748-6683","affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Department of Economics and Management, Universit\u00e0 degli Studi di Brescia, Brescia, Italy","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I79940851"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":1,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5002361465"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I79940851"],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":2.3249,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":1,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.91105682,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":89,"max":94},"biblio":{"volume":"9","issue":"2","first_page":"187","last_page":"202"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9775000214576721,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9775000214576721,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T14094","display_name":"Italy: Economic History and Contemporary Issues","score":0.0044999998062849045,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/2002","display_name":"Economics and Econometrics"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/20","display_name":"Economics, Econometrics and Finance"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T10605","display_name":"Historical Economic and Social Studies","score":0.004000000189989805,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/2002","display_name":"Economics and Econometrics"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/20","display_name":"Economics, Econometrics and Finance"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/jewelry-making","display_name":"jewelry making","score":0.8140000104904175},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-accessories","display_name":"fashion accessories","score":0.8730000257492065},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/jewelry-trade","display_name":"jewelry trade","score":0.4169999957084656},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/18th-century","display_name":"18th century","score":0.7960000038146973},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/19th-century","display_name":"19th century","score":0.9990000128746033},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/northern-italy","display_name":"Northern Italy","score":0.8199999928474426}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.5322238206863403},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2779530757","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1207505","display_name":"Quality (philosophy)","level":2,"score":0.48300135135650635},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C52119013","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q50637","display_name":"Art history","level":1,"score":0.39927101135253906},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C195244886","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q41493","display_name":"Ancient history","level":1,"score":0.38404324650764465},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C54750564","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q26643","display_name":"Commerce","level":1,"score":0.3326471447944641},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C153349607","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36649","display_name":"Visual arts","level":1,"score":0.32368233799934387},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.28113245964050293},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144133560","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q4830453","display_name":"Business","level":0,"score":0.2616058886051178},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C138885662","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q5891","display_name":"Philosophy","level":0,"score":0.08467164635658264},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C111472728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q9471","display_name":"Epistemology","level":1,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":2,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273172","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273172","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273172","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4210196589","display_name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","issn_l":"2373-5171","issn":["2373-5171","2373-518X"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":true,"listed_in":["cwts-core","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-20","russia-white-list-3","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320547","host_organization_name":"Taylor & Francis","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320547","https://openalex.org/P4310320449"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Taylor & Francis","Informa"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","raw_type":"journal-article"},{"id":"pmh:oai:iris.unibs.it:11379/591846","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://hdl.handle.net/11379/591846","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4306400804","display_name":"Institutional Research Information System (Universit\u00e0 degli Studi di Brescia)","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/I66752286","host_organization_name":"University of Milano-Bicocca","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/I66752286"],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"repository"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"submittedVersion","is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":null,"raw_type":"info:eu-repo/semantics/article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"sustainable_development_goals_aurora":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":20,"referenced_works":["https://openalex.org/W414313309","https://openalex.org/W586474919","https://openalex.org/W599641806","https://openalex.org/W602845197","https://openalex.org/W1528440968","https://openalex.org/W1988756782","https://openalex.org/W1992673163","https://openalex.org/W2087275524","https://openalex.org/W2282666674","https://openalex.org/W2401641315","https://openalex.org/W2533313332","https://openalex.org/W2745090363","https://openalex.org/W3022691091","https://openalex.org/W3096551845","https://openalex.org/W3152416718","https://openalex.org/W4236989202","https://openalex.org/W6631721561","https://openalex.org/W6981206548","https://openalex.org/W6996990843","https://openalex.org/W7067436611"],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W7014411224","https://openalex.org/W4249971181","https://openalex.org/W3086293085","https://openalex.org/W6990522847","https://openalex.org/W6999144809","https://openalex.org/W2832394511","https://openalex.org/W1992673163","https://openalex.org/W2898371991","https://openalex.org/W2907792426","https://openalex.org/W2947819437"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"During":[0],"the":[1,26,33,40,47,85,94,110,123],"seventeenth":[2],"and":[3,12,23,42,54,57,79,83,96,105,116,136],"eighteenth":[4,41],"centuries":[5],"ornamental":[6],"items":[7,66],"destined":[8],"for":[9],"people,":[10],"garments":[11],"clothing":[13],"accessories":[14,92],"underwent":[15],"a":[16,63,130],"great":[17],"change":[18],"in":[19,25,93,108,139],"terms":[20],"of":[21,65,70,77,112,129],"taste":[22],"function":[24],"European":[27],"novelty":[28],"market.":[29],"The":[30,60,99],"paper":[31],"highlights":[32],"Italian":[34,87],"answer":[35],"to":[36,52,74,134],"these":[37],"changes":[38],"during":[39],"nineteenth":[43],"centuries,":[44],"by":[45],"analysing":[46],"language":[48],"(words,":[49],"adjectives)":[50],"adopted":[51],"promote":[53],"describe":[55],"\u2018non-precious\u2019":[56,135],"\u2018semi-precious\u2019":[58,137],"jewels.":[59],"study":[61],"identifies":[62,102],"series":[64],"embodying":[67],"different":[68],"standards":[69],"quality":[71],"with":[72],"respect":[73],"those":[75],"typical":[76],"local":[78],"traditional":[80],"jewellery":[81],"production":[82],"representing":[84],"first":[86],"attempt":[88],"at":[89],"reinterpreting":[90],"fashionable":[91],"English":[95],"French":[97],"style.":[98],"research":[100],"also":[101],"new":[103,131],"agents":[104],"operators":[106],"involved":[107],"both":[109],"manufacture":[111],"jewels":[113,138],"from":[114],"alloys":[115],"their":[117],"sale,":[118],"as":[119,121],"well":[120],"delineating":[122],"progressive,":[124],"sometimes":[125],"contested,":[126],"gradual":[127],"advance":[128],"cultural":[132],"approach":[133],"Northern":[140],"Italy.":[141]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2024,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-08-15T07:11:24.734988","created_date":"2023-12-06T00:00:00"}
