{"id":"https://openalex.org/W3208213185","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epab047","title":"Paris Fashion and World War Two: Global Diffusion and Nazi Control","display_name":"Paris Fashion and World War Two: Global Diffusion and Nazi Control","publication_year":2021,"publication_date":"2021-10-05","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W3208213185","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epab047","mag":"3208213185"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1093/jdh/epab047","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epab047","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epab047","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S191448683","display_name":"Journal of Design History","issn_l":"0952-4649","issn":["0952-4649","1741-7279"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-3","norway-2","poland-140","russia-white-list-1"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311648","host_organization_name":"Oxford University Press","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311648","https://openalex.org/P4310311647"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Oxford University Press","University of Oxford"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Journal of Design History","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5046651863","display_name":"Maude Bass-Krueger","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1732-9059","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1732-9059"]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I32597200","display_name":"Ghent University","ror":"https://ror.org/00cv9y106","country_code":"BE","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I32597200"]}],"countries":["BE"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Maude Bass-Krueger","raw_affiliation_strings":["Professor, Ghent University, Department of Art History Theatre, and Music Studies Ghent, Belgium"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Professor, Ghent University, Department of Art History Theatre, and Music Studies Ghent, Belgium","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I32597200"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":1,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5046651863"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I32597200"],"apc_list":{"value":2354,"currency":"GBP","value_usd":4120},"apc_paid":null,"fwci":4.0319,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":2,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.94263341,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":88,"max":94},"biblio":{"volume":"34","issue":"4","first_page":"390","last_page":"392"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9639000296592712,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9639000296592712,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12645","display_name":"European history and politics","score":0.03280000016093254,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/3320","display_name":"Political Science and International Relations"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/33","display_name":"Social Sciences"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13413","display_name":"Cultural and Historical Studies","score":0.0010000000474974513,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/parisian-fashion","display_name":"Paris fashion","score":0.9599999785423279},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/world-war-ii","display_name":"World War II","score":0.8939999938011169},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/nazi-germany","display_name":"Nazi Germany","score":0.8529999852180481},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/couture","display_name":"couture","score":0.6140000224113464},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/hermann-goering","display_name":"Hermann Goering","score":0.9649999737739563},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/aryanization","display_name":"Aryanization","score":0.6520000100135803},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/auschwitz","display_name":"Auschwitz","score":0.6470000147819519},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/national-dress","display_name":"national dress","score":0.5669999718666077}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C5616717","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7310","display_name":"Nazism","level":3,"score":0.8630475997924805},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C121578661","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7318","display_name":"Nazi Germany","level":3,"score":0.6337419152259827},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C154775046","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q188","display_name":"German","level":2,"score":0.5952940583229065},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778983918","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q188830","display_name":"Wife","level":2,"score":0.5215237736701965},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C150152722","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q9268","display_name":"Judaism","level":2,"score":0.5210247039794922},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C163258240","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q25342","display_name":"Power (physics)","level":2,"score":0.5162615776062012},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.47453343868255615},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C137355542","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q362","display_name":"World War II","level":2,"score":0.473898321390152},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776639384","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q840396","display_name":"Ideal (ethics)","level":2,"score":0.4436854124069214},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199539241","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7748","display_name":"Law","level":1,"score":0.4147699177265167},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C52119013","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q50637","display_name":"Art history","level":1,"score":0.3955360949039459},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.26334643363952637},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C17744445","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36442","display_name":"Political science","level":0,"score":0.2414703369140625},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C121332964","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q413","display_name":"Physics","level":0,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C62520636","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q944","display_name":"Quantum mechanics","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C166957645","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q23498","display_name":"Archaeology","level":1,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":2,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1093/jdh/epab047","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epab047","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epab047","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S191448683","display_name":"Journal of Design History","issn_l":"0952-4649","issn":["0952-4649","1741-7279"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-3","norway-2","poland-140","russia-white-list-1"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311648","host_organization_name":"Oxford University Press","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311648","https://openalex.org/P4310311647"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Oxford University Press","University of Oxford"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Journal of Design History","raw_type":"journal-article"},{"id":"pmh:oai:archive.ugent.be:8725728","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"http://hdl.handle.net/1854/LU-8725728","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4306400478","display_name":"Ghent University Academic Bibliography (Ghent University)","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/I32597200","host_organization_name":"Ghent University","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/I32597200"],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"repository"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"submittedVersion","is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"ISSN: 1741-7279","raw_type":"info:eu-repo/semantics/review"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"pdf":false,"grobid_xml":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":0,"referenced_works":[],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W4231795640","https://openalex.org/W4232367433","https://openalex.org/W4410102250","https://openalex.org/W3122089814","https://openalex.org/W2993765561","https://openalex.org/W2222561781","https://openalex.org/W4239628763","https://openalex.org/W7028860595","https://openalex.org/W2762565442","https://openalex.org/W3175908102"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"Two":[0],"weeks":[1],"before":[2],"Paris":[3,54,71,166],"was":[4,58],"liberated":[5],"from":[6,17,32,40,73],"Nazi":[7,42,63,115,141],"control,":[8],"Hermann":[9],"Goering":[10],"ordered":[11],"four":[12],"gowns":[13],"for":[14,133],"his":[15],"wife":[16],"the":[18,33,48,68,74,78,102,114,134,137,148],"couture":[19,119,150,167],"salon":[20],"of":[21,35,50,70,77,88,113,136],"Paquin.":[22],"Hopped-up":[23],"with":[24,94,178],"self-aggrandizing":[25],"and":[26,29,38,44,65,92,97,100,175],"murderous":[27],"power,":[28],"made":[30],"wealthy":[31,111],"spoliation":[34],"art,":[36],"goods":[37],"businesses":[39],"Jews,":[41],"leaders":[43],"their":[45,156,173,179],"wives":[46,135],"embodied":[47],"hypocrisy":[49],"German":[51,98],"attitudes":[52],"towards":[53],"fashion.":[55],"Although":[56],"there":[57],"no":[59],"official":[60],"\u2018Reich":[61],"Fashion\u2019,":[62],"theory":[64],"organizations":[66],"fought":[67],"influence":[69],"fashion":[72,84],"very":[75],"start":[76],"war.":[79],"Outwardly,":[80],"they":[81],"Aryanized":[82],"Jewish":[83,122],"salons,":[85],"replaced":[86],"photographs":[87],"\u2018enemy":[89],"fashion\u2019":[90],"(English":[91],"French)":[93],"Italian,":[95],"Austrian,":[96],"designs,":[99],"claimed":[101],"trachtenstil":[103],"as":[104],"ideal":[105],"national":[106],"dress.":[107],"In":[108],"truth,":[109],"however,":[110],"members":[112],"party":[116],"patronized":[117],"Parisian":[118,149],"houses":[120],"while":[121],"seamstresses":[123],"interned":[124],"in":[125],"Auschwitz":[126],"were":[127],"forced":[128],"to":[129,164,172],"create":[130],"Paris-inspired":[131],"outfits":[132],"camp\u2019s":[138],"officers.":[139],"The":[140],"government":[142],"could":[143],"easily":[144],"have":[145],"shut":[146],"down":[147],"industry":[151],"if":[152],"that":[153],"had":[154],"been":[155],"intent.":[157],"Instead,":[158],"Lou":[159],"Taylor":[160],"writes,":[161],"\u2018they":[162],"opted":[163],"turn":[165],"into":[168],"a":[169],"trade":[170],"subjugated":[171],"will":[174],"functioning":[176],"only":[177],"permission\u2019":[180],"(p.":[181],"34).":[182]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2024,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2021,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-08-28T12:50:07.497085","created_date":"2021-11-08T00:00:00"}
