{"id":"https://openalex.org/W3103523005","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00016_1","title":"Under-dressed: Vests as representations of White, liminal masculinity and the transnational body in Saturday Night Fever and Raging Bull","display_name":"Under-dressed: Vests as representations of White, liminal masculinity and the transnational body in Saturday Night Fever and Raging Bull","publication_year":2020,"publication_date":"2020-10-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W3103523005","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00016_1","mag":"3103523005"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1386/ffc_00016_1","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00016_1","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00016_1","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4210181227","display_name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","issn_l":"2044-2823","issn":["2044-2823","2044-2831"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-70","russia-white-list-3"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311755","host_organization_name":"Intellect","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311755"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Intellect"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Film, Fashion &amp; Consumption","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5002294893","display_name":"Jo Turney","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7992-9212","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7992-9212"]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I43439940","display_name":"University of Southampton","ror":"https://ror.org/01ryk1543","country_code":"GB","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I43439940"]}],"countries":["GB"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Jo Turney","raw_affiliation_strings":["Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I43439940"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":1,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5002294893"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I43439940"],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":4.9836,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":3,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.95463159,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":89,"max":94},"biblio":{"volume":"9","issue":"2","first_page":"131","last_page":"155"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.8285999894142151,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.8285999894142151,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12803","display_name":"Cinema History and Criticism","score":0.07810000330209732,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12275","display_name":"Gender and Feminist Studies","score":0.03920000046491623,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/3318","display_name":"Gender Studies"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/33","display_name":"Social Sciences"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/masculinity","display_name":"masculinity","score":0.8920000195503235},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/saturday-night-fever","display_name":"Saturday Night Fever","score":0.7639999985694885},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/raging-bull","display_name":"Raging Bull","score":1.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/1970s-film","display_name":"1970s cinema","score":0.7639999985694885},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/working-class-masculinity","display_name":"working-class masculinity","score":0.8240000009536743},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/heteronormativity","display_name":"heteronormativity","score":0.7049999833106995},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/liminality","display_name":"liminality","score":0.5989999771118164},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/nationhood","display_name":"nationhood","score":0.5180000066757202},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/ethnicity","display_name":"ethnicity","score":0.4449999928474426},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/stereotypes","display_name":"stereotypes","score":0.5019999742507935},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/mise-en-scene","display_name":"mise-en-sc\u00e8ne","score":0.8479999899864197},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/male-body","display_name":"male body","score":0.6150000095367432},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-in-film","display_name":"fashion in film","score":0.4729999899864197},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/masculinity-and-femininity","display_name":"masculinity and femininity","score":0.47600001096725464}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2779103072","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1076509","display_name":"Masculinity","level":2,"score":0.8995620012283325},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199033989","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1318295","display_name":"Narrative","level":2,"score":0.6868469715118408},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107993555","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1662673","display_name":"Gender studies","level":1,"score":0.5845491290092468},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2777057682","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q5698395","display_name":"Hegemonic masculinity","level":3,"score":0.5432767271995544},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C14812997","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1825499","display_name":"Liminality","level":2,"score":0.5341222882270813},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.5196717381477356},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C169087156","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q2131593","display_name":"Framing (construction)","level":2,"score":0.5091807246208191},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C56273599","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3122841","display_name":"White (mutation)","level":3,"score":0.5007524490356445},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107038049","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986","display_name":"Aesthetics","level":1,"score":0.42683807015419006},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778613316","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q17016489","display_name":"White privilege","level":3,"score":0.4180169701576233},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.27108925580978394},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.22441425919532776},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C124952713","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q8242","display_name":"Literature","level":1,"score":0.1954878568649292},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C76509639","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q918036","display_name":"Race (biology)","level":2,"score":0.14491447806358337},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C55493867","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7094","display_name":"Biochemistry","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C104317684","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7187","display_name":"Gene","level":2,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C185592680","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q2329","display_name":"Chemistry","level":0,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C166957645","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q23498","display_name":"Archaeology","level":1,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":2,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1386/ffc_00016_1","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00016_1","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00016_1","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4210181227","display_name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","issn_l":"2044-2823","issn":["2044-2823","2044-2831"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-70","russia-white-list-3"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311755","host_organization_name":"Intellect","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311755"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Intellect"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Film, Fashion &amp; Consumption","raw_type":"journal-article"},{"id":"pmh:oai:eprints.soton.ac.uk:446788","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"http://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00016_1>).","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4306401019","display_name":"ePrints Soton (University of Southampton)","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/I43439940","host_organization_name":"University of Southampton","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/I43439940"],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"repository"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"acceptedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":null,"raw_type":"Article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"sustainable_development_goals_aurora":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":27,"referenced_works":["https://openalex.org/W345507450","https://openalex.org/W1561028237","https://openalex.org/W1922456411","https://openalex.org/W1968817351","https://openalex.org/W2008050761","https://openalex.org/W2019512230","https://openalex.org/W2029170947","https://openalex.org/W2031850397","https://openalex.org/W2063974596","https://openalex.org/W2074860893","https://openalex.org/W2076521220","https://openalex.org/W2092255266","https://openalex.org/W2095266736","https://openalex.org/W2099241386","https://openalex.org/W2105549652","https://openalex.org/W2107452349","https://openalex.org/W2167320486","https://openalex.org/W2207331915","https://openalex.org/W2213141556","https://openalex.org/W2214337146","https://openalex.org/W2315262740","https://openalex.org/W2895963564","https://openalex.org/W2958556092","https://openalex.org/W3103523005","https://openalex.org/W4205263546","https://openalex.org/W4236338856","https://openalex.org/W4410074049"],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W1516479469","https://openalex.org/W2155391045","https://openalex.org/W2095146096","https://openalex.org/W4309757624","https://openalex.org/W7133571774","https://openalex.org/W2055229176","https://openalex.org/W2804289516","https://openalex.org/W314768927","https://openalex.org/W4400261215","https://openalex.org/W1989105624"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"Abstract":[0],"The":[1,45,103,117],"1970s":[2],"is":[3,55,106],"often":[4],"considered":[5],"a":[6,30,136,176],"period":[7],"in":[8,12,40,43],"which":[9],"masculinity":[10,37],"was":[11,38],"crisis.":[13],"This":[14],"article":[15],"considers":[16],"that":[17,96],"through":[18,82,110,160],"cinematic":[19],"representation":[20],"and":[21,34,52,67,75,77,84,94,98,108,113,122,155,171],"the":[22,25,68,111,120,132,143,146,150,153,156,161,166,169],"use":[23],"of":[24,32,91,119,138,145,152,158,168,178],"white":[26],"cotton":[27],"vest":[28,112,121,162],"as":[29,135,163,175],"motif":[31],"hegemonic":[33],"working-class":[35,70],"masculinity,":[36,64],"not":[39],"crisis,":[41],"but":[42],"transition.":[44],"focus":[46],"on":[47],"films":[48,130],"Saturday":[49],"Night":[50],"Fever":[51],"Raging":[53],"Bull,":[54],"used":[56],"here":[57],"to":[58,88,101,183],"exemplify":[59],"discussions":[60],"surrounding":[61],"primarily":[62],"hetero-normative":[63],"nationhood,":[65],"tradition":[66],"White":[69],"male":[71,104],"body":[72,105,144],"both":[73],"dressed":[74],"undressed,":[76],"how":[78],"these":[79,126],"provide":[80],"spaces":[81],"narrative":[83,170],"mise":[85],"en":[86],"sc\u00e8ne":[87],"discuss":[89],"notions":[90],"flux,":[92],"change":[93],"fluidity":[95],"maps":[97],"arcs":[99],"\u2018masculinity\u2019":[100],"masculinities.":[102,185],"deconstructed":[107],"reconstructed":[109],"becomes":[114],"public":[115],"spectacle.":[116],"centrality":[118],"its":[123],"purpose":[124],"within":[125],"(and":[127],"many":[128],"other)":[129],"during":[131],"period,":[133],"acts":[134],"means":[137,177],"revealing":[139],"more":[140],"than":[141],"just":[142],"wearer.":[147],"In":[148],"particular,":[149],"ethnicity":[151],"protagonist":[154],"repurposing":[157],"stereotypes":[159],"motif,":[164],"underpin":[165],"credibility":[167],"can":[172],"be":[173],"understood":[174],"simplifying":[179],"or":[180],"coding":[181],"approaches":[182],"shifting":[184]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2024,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2023,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2020,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-09-17T22:18:28.273824","created_date":"2020-11-23T00:00:00"}
