{"id":"https://openalex.org/W3017204627","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x20910789","title":"The Ties That Bind: Britain\u2019s Use of Scottish Highland Dress","display_name":"The Ties That Bind: Britain\u2019s Use of Scottish Highland Dress","publication_year":2020,"publication_date":"2020-04-13","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W3017204627","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x20910789","mag":"3017204627"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1177/0887302x20910789","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x20910789","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x20910789","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S968878802","display_name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","issn_l":"0887-302X","issn":["0887-302X","1940-2473"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":true,"listed_in":["cwts-core","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-70","russia-white-list-1"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320017","host_organization_name":"SAGE Publishing","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320017"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["SAGE Publishing"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5038593074","display_name":"David Loranger","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6779-9636","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6779-9636"]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I130186095","display_name":"Sacred Heart University","ror":"https://ror.org/0085j8z36","country_code":"US","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I130186095"]}],"countries":["US"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"David Loranger","raw_affiliation_strings":["Sacred Heart University, Fairfield, CT, USA"],"raw_orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6779-9636","affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Sacred Heart University, Fairfield, CT, USA","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I130186095"]}]},{"author_position":"last","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5090312839","display_name":"Eulanda A. Sanders","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9009-8640","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9009-8640"]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I173911158","display_name":"Iowa State University","ror":"https://ror.org/04rswrd78","country_code":"US","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I173911158"]}],"countries":["US"],"is_corresponding":false,"raw_author_name":"Eulanda A. Sanders","raw_affiliation_strings":["Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I173911158"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":2,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5038593074"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I130186095"],"apc_list":{"value":3000,"currency":"USD","value_usd":3000},"apc_paid":null,"fwci":4.9836,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":2,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.94445064,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":93,"max":95},"biblio":{"volume":"38","issue":"4","first_page":"240","last_page":"254"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9613999724388123,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9613999724388123,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T14109","display_name":"Scottish History and National Identity","score":0.037700001150369644,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1202","display_name":"History"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13863","display_name":"Cultural History and Identity Formation","score":0.000699999975040555,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1202","display_name":"History"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/kilt","display_name":"kilt","score":0.9750000238418579},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/tartan","display_name":"tartan","score":0.9909999966621399},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/national-dress","display_name":"national dress","score":0.7129999995231628},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/cultural-appropriation","display_name":"cultural appropriation","score":0.652999997138977},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/national-identity","display_name":"national identity","score":0.7129999995231628},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/scottish-identity","display_name":"Scottish national identity","score":0.5090000033378601},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/dress-history","display_name":"dress history","score":0.4580000042915344}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776931063","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q4781738","display_name":"Appropriation","level":2,"score":0.7684197425842285},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C178300618","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1898509","display_name":"Extant taxon","level":2,"score":0.6729987859725952},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C94625758","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7163","display_name":"Politics","level":2,"score":0.6090485453605652},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2779343474","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3109175","display_name":"Context (archaeology)","level":2,"score":0.5920256972312927},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778355321","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q17079427","display_name":"Identity (music)","level":2,"score":0.5508940815925598},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778407155","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1880695","display_name":"National identity","level":3,"score":0.45065733790397644},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C13801280","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36732","display_name":"Kingdom","level":2,"score":0.43472611904144287},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.43160876631736755},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C53553401","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q47307","display_name":"Genealogy","level":1,"score":0.39564943313598633},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107993555","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1662673","display_name":"Gender studies","level":1,"score":0.3471754193305969},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.31754860281944275},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C17744445","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36442","display_name":"Political science","level":0,"score":0.2926180064678192},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C166957645","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q23498","display_name":"Archaeology","level":1,"score":0.1380338966846466},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199539241","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7748","display_name":"Law","level":1,"score":0.13160288333892822},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107038049","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986","display_name":"Aesthetics","level":1,"score":0.1187610924243927},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.09161621332168579},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C78458016","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q840400","display_name":"Evolutionary biology","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C41895202","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q8162","display_name":"Linguistics","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C151730666","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7205","display_name":"Paleontology","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C138885662","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q5891","display_name":"Philosophy","level":0,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C86803240","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q420","display_name":"Biology","level":0,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":1,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1177/0887302x20910789","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x20910789","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x20910789","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S968878802","display_name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","issn_l":"0887-302X","issn":["0887-302X","1940-2473"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":true,"listed_in":["cwts-core","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-70","russia-white-list-1"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320017","host_organization_name":"SAGE Publishing","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320017"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["SAGE Publishing"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"sustainable_development_goals_aurora":[{"score":0.6299999952316284,"id":"https://metadata.un.org/sdg/10","display_name":"Reduced inequalities"}],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"pdf":false,"grobid_xml":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":22,"referenced_works":["https://openalex.org/W141655461","https://openalex.org/W633480421","https://openalex.org/W1970650168","https://openalex.org/W1974293650","https://openalex.org/W1980039247","https://openalex.org/W2003141128","https://openalex.org/W2059539664","https://openalex.org/W2060761392","https://openalex.org/W2088687770","https://openalex.org/W2096637288","https://openalex.org/W2113257626","https://openalex.org/W2137389168","https://openalex.org/W2156624815","https://openalex.org/W2157392622","https://openalex.org/W2315413886","https://openalex.org/W2478649177","https://openalex.org/W2493642878","https://openalex.org/W2499786171","https://openalex.org/W2595007368","https://openalex.org/W2907260369","https://openalex.org/W4205402545","https://openalex.org/W4297847885"],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W1552221389","https://openalex.org/W2739308321","https://openalex.org/W2586660596","https://openalex.org/W7147333306","https://openalex.org/W2888298143","https://openalex.org/W7207881794","https://openalex.org/W2258938253","https://openalex.org/W2164148645","https://openalex.org/W610566160","https://openalex.org/W1519455986"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"For":[0],"over":[1,136],"300":[2],"years,":[3],"Britain":[4],"has":[5,19,40],"influenced":[6],"Scotland\u2019s":[7,37],"national":[8,38],"identity.":[9],"Scottish":[10,89,131],"Highland":[11,90,132],"dress,":[12],"which":[13],"consists":[14],"of":[15,58,68,78,88,112,118,130],"kilts":[16],"and":[17,23,34,64,74,81,100,107,121,128],"tartans":[18],"been":[20],"appropriated,":[21],"manipulated,":[22],"transformed":[24,135],"by":[25],"the":[26,48,86,110,126],"British":[27,59,94],"in":[28],"order":[29],"to":[30,42,72,92],"forward":[31,93],"political,":[32],"commercial,":[33],"social":[35],"objectives.":[36],"dress":[39,91,133],"contributed":[41],"a":[43,76,114],"more":[44,115],"cohesive":[45],"identity":[46],"within":[47],"United":[49],"Kingdom.":[50],"However,":[51],"available":[52],"research":[53],"only":[54],"examines":[55],"specific":[56],"instances":[57],"influence":[60],"on\u2014and":[61],"usage":[62,129],"of\u2014kilts":[63],"tartans.":[65],"The":[66,96],"purpose":[67],"this":[69],"study":[70],"was":[71,134],"identify":[73],"explore":[75],"sample":[77],"key":[79],"figures":[80],"historical":[82],"events":[83],"that":[84],"illustrate":[85],"use":[87],"interests.":[95],"researchers":[97],"triangulated":[98],"databases":[99],"secondary":[101],"literature":[102],"along":[103],"with":[104,109],"extant":[105],"objects":[106],"materials,":[108],"aim":[111],"developing":[113],"holistic":[116],"understanding":[117],"appropriation,":[119],"manipulation,":[120],"transformation.":[122],"Findings":[123],"indicate":[124],"how":[125],"context":[127],"time.":[137]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2020,"cited_by_count":2}],"updated_date":"2026-08-28T12:50:07.497085","created_date":"2020-04-24T00:00:00"}