{"id":"https://openalex.org/W2978064950","doi":"https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2019.69.6.001","title":"Characteristics and Meaning behind Fashion as a Subcultural Bricolage : Focused on the Fashion of 2014 Fall/Winter to 2019 Spring/Summer","display_name":"Characteristics and Meaning behind Fashion as a Subcultural Bricolage : Focused on the Fashion of 2014 Fall/Winter to 2019 Spring/Summer","publication_year":2019,"publication_date":"2019-09-30","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W2978064950","doi":"https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2019.69.6.001","mag":"2978064950"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.7233/jksc.2019.69.6.001","doi":"https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2019.69.6.001","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2019.69.6.001","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S2764812034","display_name":"The Korean Society of Costume","issn_l":"1229-6880","issn":["1229-6880","2287-7827"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["kci-registered"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4327874102","host_organization_name":"The Korea Society of Costume","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4327874102"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["The Korea Society of Costume"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Journal of the Korean Society of Costume","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5045855036","display_name":"Han A Cho","orcid":null,"observed_orcids":[]},"institutions":[],"countries":[],"is_corresponding":false,"raw_author_name":"Han A Cho","raw_affiliation_strings":[],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[]},{"author_position":"last","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5101657107","display_name":"Young In Kim","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7279-2519","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7279-2519"]},"institutions":[],"countries":[],"is_corresponding":false,"raw_author_name":"Young In Kim","raw_affiliation_strings":[],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":0,"institutions_distinct_count":0,"corresponding_author_ids":[],"corresponding_institution_ids":[],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":3.2067,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":2,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.92061204,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":88,"max":94},"biblio":{"volume":"69","issue":"6","first_page":"1","last_page":"18"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9785000085830688,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9785000085830688,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13413","display_name":"Cultural and Historical Studies","score":0.020600000396370888,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13043","display_name":"Youth Culture and Social Dynamics","score":0.00039999998989515007,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/3312","display_name":"Sociology and Political Science"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/33","display_name":"Social Sciences"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/bricolage","display_name":"bricolage","score":0.9169999957084656},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/retro","display_name":"retro style","score":0.9750000238418579},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/street-style","display_name":"street style","score":0.9950000047683716},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/dick-hebdige","display_name":"Dick Hebdige","score":0.8230000138282776},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/everyday-objects","display_name":"everyday objects","score":0.4180000126361847},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/beauty-standards","display_name":"beauty standards","score":0.4189999997615814}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2777805874","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q913510","display_name":"Bricolage","level":2,"score":0.9468320608139038},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C87863119","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q842756","display_name":"Subculture (biology)","level":2,"score":0.810258150100708},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2777617010","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q18957","display_name":"Mainstream","level":2,"score":0.7029330730438232},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107038049","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986","display_name":"Aesthetics","level":1,"score":0.6275957822799683},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776445246","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1792644","display_name":"Style (visual arts)","level":2,"score":0.6167865991592407},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2780876879","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3054749","display_name":"Meaning (existential)","level":2,"score":0.6134694814682007},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2780620123","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7242","display_name":"Beauty","level":2,"score":0.5379747748374939},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2777204853","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q14623823","display_name":"Artificiality","level":2,"score":0.4128107726573944},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.3831354081630707},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.3780253529548645},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C124952713","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q8242","display_name":"Literature","level":1,"score":0.2800074815750122},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C138885662","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q5891","display_name":"Philosophy","level":0,"score":0.13878756761550903},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C111472728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q9471","display_name":"Epistemology","level":1,"score":0.12000113725662231},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C86803240","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q420","display_name":"Biology","level":0,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C27206212","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q34178","display_name":"Theology","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C59822182","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q441","display_name":"Botany","level":1,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":1,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.7233/jksc.2019.69.6.001","doi":"https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2019.69.6.001","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2019.69.6.001","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S2764812034","display_name":"The Korean Society of Costume","issn_l":"1229-6880","issn":["1229-6880","2287-7827"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["kci-registered"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4327874102","host_organization_name":"The Korea Society of Costume","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4327874102"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["The Korea Society of Costume"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Journal of the Korean Society of Costume","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":15,"referenced_works":["https://openalex.org/W618687753","https://openalex.org/W654448318","https://openalex.org/W1480758934","https://openalex.org/W2003107895","https://openalex.org/W2078071001","https://openalex.org/W2332388651","https://openalex.org/W2570458980","https://openalex.org/W2620548679","https://openalex.org/W2789834461","https://openalex.org/W2800614249","https://openalex.org/W2804881518","https://openalex.org/W2898394928","https://openalex.org/W2936493632","https://openalex.org/W4300566541","https://openalex.org/W7026280589"],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W2403659818","https://openalex.org/W2004630401","https://openalex.org/W2565541021","https://openalex.org/W3043817817","https://openalex.org/W7098232605","https://openalex.org/W6996673559","https://openalex.org/W2783708693","https://openalex.org/W4254171232","https://openalex.org/W2985953173","https://openalex.org/W2800614249"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"Since":[0],"2014,":[1],"a":[2,45,52,154,169,214,264],"new":[3,88,215],"aesthetic":[4],"fashion":[5,21,28,39,80,116,173,204,253],"style":[6,29,50,144,198],"has":[7],"emerged":[8],"that":[9,14,37,57,187,248,271],"borrows":[10],"from":[11,33,60],"subculture":[12,56,79,123,133],"groups":[13],"do":[15],"not":[16],"traditionally":[17],"relate":[18],"to":[19,41,108],"the":[20,34,49,61,65,85,95,102,110,122,130,141,147,195,209,225,239,244,260],"trend":[22],"system.":[23],"The":[24,164,192],"abnormal":[25],"and":[26,54,112,134,145,156,184,205,232,254,257,268,276],"anti-aesthetic":[27,115],"-which":[30],"is":[31,107,153,220,230,235,249,272],"distinguished":[32,59],"perfect":[35],"beauty":[36,247],"traditional":[38,252],"tends":[40],"pursue-":[42],"appears":[43,201],"in":[44,202,217,251,274,280],"similar":[46],"pattern":[47],"as":[48,199],"of":[51,64,78,87,98,104,114,132,143,149,162,168,171,197,224,243,246,262,266],"unique":[53],"heterogeneous":[55],"was":[58],"mainstream":[62,226],"culture":[63],"1960s.":[66],"Socio-culturalists,":[67],"who":[68,152],"have":[69,188],"performed":[70],"previous":[71],"research":[72,127,165,193],"on":[73],"subculture,":[74],"explained":[75],"such":[76],"expression":[77],"using":[81],"bricolage,":[82],"which":[83,218,227],"transforms":[84],"meaning":[86,142,196,216],"symbols":[89,93],"into":[90],"their":[91],"own":[92],"through":[94,121,136,159],"non-pessimistic":[96],"arrangement":[97],"everyday":[99,281],"objects.":[100],"Therefore,":[101],"purpose":[103],"this":[105],"study":[106],"identify":[109],"characteristics":[111,167],"meanings":[113],"styles":[117,278],"appearing":[118],"after":[119],"2014":[120],"bricolage":[124,135,148,210,261],"form.":[125,211],"This":[126,234],"looks":[128],"at":[129],"concepts":[131],"literature":[137],"researches.":[138],"It":[139,212],"studies":[140],"considers":[146,166],"Dick":[150],"Hebdige,":[151],"social":[155],"cultural":[157],"scholar,":[158],"stylistic":[160],"examples":[161],"subculture.":[163],"total":[170],"six":[172],"styles,":[174],"including":[175],"Normcore,":[176],"Gorpcore,":[177],"Nerd":[178],"Style,":[179,181,183,186],"Daddy":[180],"Retro":[182],"Street":[185],"appeared":[189],"since":[190],"2014.":[191],"analyzes":[194],"it":[200,207],"modern":[203],"identifies":[206],"via":[208,259],"creates":[213],"universality":[219],"destroyed":[221],"by":[222,237,255],"reversal":[223,265],"means":[228],"ugly":[229],"attractive":[231],"new.":[233],"achieved":[236],"breaking":[238],"ideal":[240],"golden":[241],"ratio":[242],"type":[245],"sought":[250],"relocating":[256],"recontextualising":[258],"absurdity,":[263],"minority":[267],"reckless":[269],"editing":[270],"intended":[273],"ordinary":[275],"universal":[277],"found":[279],"life.":[282]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2024,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2021,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-10-16T09:59:22.235173","created_date":"2019-10-10T00:00:00"}
