{"id":"https://openalex.org/W2962904940","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.10.1.91_1","title":"A history of fashion without fashion: Recovering the stout body in the digital archive","display_name":"A history of fashion without fashion: Recovering the stout body in the digital archive","publication_year":2019,"publication_date":"2019-06-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W2962904940","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.10.1.91_1","mag":"2962904940"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1386/csfb.10.1.91_1","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.10.1.91_1","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.10.1.91_1","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4210171171","display_name":"Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty","issn_l":"2040-4417","issn":["2040-4417","2040-4425"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":true,"listed_in":["anvur-scientific","cwts-core","erih-plus","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-20","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311755","host_organization_name":"Intellect","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311755"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Intellect"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5004360060","display_name":"Lauren Downing Peters","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2957-553X","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2957-553X"]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I45338645","display_name":"Columbia College Chicago","ror":"https://ror.org/03a3kvy61","country_code":"US","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I45338645"]}],"countries":["US"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Lauren Downing Peters","raw_affiliation_strings":["Columbia College Chicago"],"raw_orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2957-553X","affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Columbia College Chicago","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I45338645"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":1,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5004360060"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I45338645"],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":3.2067,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":7,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.91473556,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":89,"max":97},"biblio":{"volume":"10","issue":"1","first_page":"91","last_page":"112"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9955999851226807,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9955999851226807,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13413","display_name":"Cultural and Historical Studies","score":0.002300000051036477,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12377","display_name":"Digital Humanities and Scholarship","score":0.0012000000569969416,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1208","display_name":"Literature and Literary Theory"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/plus-size-fashion","display_name":"plus-size fashion","score":0.8730000257492065},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-history","display_name":"fashion history","score":0.4480000138282776},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/digital-archives","display_name":"digital archives","score":0.7540000081062317},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/garment-reconstruction","display_name":"garment reconstruction","score":0.5230000019073486},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/self-fashioning","display_name":"self-fashioning","score":0.671999990940094},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/history-of-the-body","display_name":"history of the body","score":0.48899999260902405},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/early-20th-century","display_name":"early 20th century","score":0.6150000095367432}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778757428","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1250464","display_name":"Realm","level":2,"score":0.758802056312561},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2781316041","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1230584","display_name":"Diversity (politics)","level":2,"score":0.5777782797813416},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C139228662","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q5155640","display_name":"Comparative historical research","level":2,"score":0.5286821722984314},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C91672089","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q29583","display_name":"Fashion design","level":3,"score":0.5009748935699463},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C9652623","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q190109","display_name":"Field (mathematics)","level":2,"score":0.4813847839832306},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2781238097","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q175026","display_name":"Object (grammar)","level":2,"score":0.47227558493614197},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.4551430344581604},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C98045186","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q205663","display_name":"Process (computing)","level":2,"score":0.45171597599983215},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2777106239","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q595094","display_name":"Sister","level":2,"score":0.44175955653190613},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C530175646","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11460","display_name":"Clothing","level":2,"score":0.4069344997406006},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107038049","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986","display_name":"Aesthetics","level":1,"score":0.37343502044677734},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C153349607","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36649","display_name":"Visual arts","level":1,"score":0.33552414178848267},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.32773512601852417},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.25860875844955444},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C41008148","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21198","display_name":"Computer science","level":0,"score":0.21531915664672852},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C19165224","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q23404","display_name":"Anthropology","level":1,"score":0.15963491797447205},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C202444582","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q837863","display_name":"Pure mathematics","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C154945302","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11660","display_name":"Artificial intelligence","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C111919701","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q9135","display_name":"Operating system","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C33923547","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q395","display_name":"Mathematics","level":0,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C166957645","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q23498","display_name":"Archaeology","level":1,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":1,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1386/csfb.10.1.91_1","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.10.1.91_1","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.10.1.91_1","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4210171171","display_name":"Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty","issn_l":"2040-4417","issn":["2040-4417","2040-4425"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":true,"listed_in":["anvur-scientific","cwts-core","erih-plus","jufo-1","norway-1","poland-20","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311755","host_organization_name":"Intellect","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311755"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Intellect"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"sustainable_development_goals_aurora":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":0,"referenced_works":[],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W2949919455","https://openalex.org/W7118171698","https://openalex.org/W4413206999","https://openalex.org/W4385501422","https://openalex.org/W2089119478","https://openalex.org/W7207988098","https://openalex.org/W2981628084","https://openalex.org/W2776507508","https://openalex.org/W4396214805","https://openalex.org/W3137559937"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"Since":[0],"its":[1,14],"beginnings":[2],"in":[3,72,200],"the":[4,55,61,73,85,113,116,120,142,189,193,201],"mid-1980s":[5],"as":[6,41,43,128,133],"an":[7],"interdisciplinary":[8],"field":[9],"of":[10,19,33,52,69,77,104,115,150,170,195],"study":[11],"indebted":[12],"to":[13,65,100,123,147,167,177],"more":[15,59,186],"entrenched":[16],"sister":[17],"disciplines":[18],"costume":[20],"studies":[21,26,79],"and":[22,36,46,58,75,94,159,173,181],"dress":[23],"history,":[24],"fashion":[25,78,97,105,130,198],"has":[27],"witnessed":[28],"scholars":[29,98,146],"adopt":[30],"a":[31,67,102,134],"number":[32],"innovative":[34],"methods":[35,93],"approaches,":[37,53],"stemming":[38],"from":[39],"fields":[40],"disparate":[42],"economic":[44],"history":[45,103,114],"ethnology.":[47],"Even":[48],"amid":[49],"this":[50,137,183],"diversity":[51],"however,":[54,83],"object":[56],"\u2013":[57,63,119,131],"specifically,":[60],"garment":[62],"continues":[64],"hold":[66],"place":[68],"special":[70],"importance":[71],"minds":[74],"research":[76,111,199],"scholars.":[80],"What":[81,92],"happens,":[82],"when":[84],"material":[86],"record":[87],"is":[88,125],"lacking":[89],"or":[90],"absent?":[91],"resources":[95],"can":[96],"employ":[99],"reconstruct":[101,160],"without":[106],"fashion?":[107],"With":[108],"my":[109,179],"doctoral":[110],"into":[112],"stoutwear":[117],"industry":[118],"early-twentieth-century":[121],"predecessor":[122],"what":[124],"today":[126],"known":[127],"plus-size":[129],"serving":[132],"case":[135],"study,":[136],"article":[138,184],"will":[139,185],"examine":[140],"how":[141],"digital":[143,202],"may":[144],"enable":[145],"recover":[148],"histories":[149],"fashion;":[151],"retrace":[152],"historical":[153,197],"self-fashioning":[154],"practices;":[155],"retrieve":[156],"lost":[157,165],"memories;":[158],"bodies":[161],"that":[162],"have":[163],"been":[164],"due":[166],"conventional":[168],"practices":[169],"conservation,":[171],"collecting":[172],"archiving.":[174],"In":[175],"addition":[176],"describing":[178],"process":[180],"findings,":[182],"generally":[187],"consider":[188],"possibilities,":[190],"but":[191],"also":[192],"perils,":[194],"conducting":[196],"realm.":[203]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2026,"cited_by_count":2},{"year":2025,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2024,"cited_by_count":2},{"year":2023,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2022,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-08-25T07:29:55.448023","created_date":"2019-07-30T00:00:00"}