{"id":"https://openalex.org/W2767432707","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","title":"Fashion in the golden age of Yugoslavian 20th century textile and clothing industry","display_name":"Fashion in the golden age of Yugoslavian 20th century textile and clothing industry","publication_year":2017,"publication_date":"2017-10-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W2767432707","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","mag":"2767432707"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","is_oa":true,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","pdf_url":"https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1757-899X/254/17/172026/pdf","source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4210189194","display_name":"IOP Conference Series Materials Science and Engineering","issn_l":"1757-8981","issn":["1757-8981","1757-899X"],"is_oa":true,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["jufo-1"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320083","host_organization_name":"IOP Publishing","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320083","https://openalex.org/P4310311669"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["IOP Publishing","Institute of Physics"],"type":"conference"},"license":"cc-by","license_id":"https://openalex.org/licenses/cc-by","version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"conference-paper","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":true,"oa_status":"diamond","oa_url":"https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1757-899X/254/17/172026/pdf","any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5047075804","display_name":"Tijana Todorovi\u0107","orcid":null,"observed_orcids":[]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I153976015","display_name":"University of Ljubljana","ror":"https://ror.org/05njb9z20","country_code":"SI","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I153976015"]}],"countries":["SI"],"is_corresponding":false,"raw_author_name":"T Todorovi\u0107","raw_affiliation_strings":["University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Sne\u017eni\u0161ka ulica 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Sne\u017eni\u0161ka ulica 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I153976015"]}]},{"author_position":"last","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5029986431","display_name":"Alenka Pavko \u010cuden","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9225-5128","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9225-5128"]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I153976015","display_name":"University of Ljubljana","ror":"https://ror.org/05njb9z20","country_code":"SI","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I153976015"]}],"countries":["SI"],"is_corresponding":false,"raw_author_name":"A Pavko-\u010cuden","raw_affiliation_strings":["University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Sne\u017eni\u0161ka ulica 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Sne\u017eni\u0161ka ulica 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I153976015"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":1,"corresponding_author_ids":[],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I153976015"],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":0.0,"has_fulltext":true,"cited_by_count":1,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.24489796,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":false},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":89,"max":94},"biblio":{"volume":"254","issue":null,"first_page":"172026","last_page":"172026"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9984999895095825,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9984999895095825,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13413","display_name":"Cultural and Historical Studies","score":0.0010999999940395355,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12437","display_name":"Balkans: History, Politics, Society","score":9.999999747378752e-05,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/3316","display_name":"Cultural Studies"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/33","display_name":"Social Sciences"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-history","display_name":"fashion history","score":0.9110000133514404},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/textile-industry","display_name":"textile industry","score":0.6359999775886536},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/garment-industry","display_name":"apparel industry","score":0.9539999961853027},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-design","display_name":"fashion design","score":0.7749999761581421},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/western-fashion","display_name":"Western fashion","score":0.6819999814033508},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/slovenia","display_name":"Slovenia","score":0.5720000267028809},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/yugoslav-socialism","display_name":"Yugoslav socialism","score":0.574999988079071},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/social-mobility","display_name":"social mobility","score":0.49900001287460327}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C530175646","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11460","display_name":"Clothing","level":2,"score":0.8911667466163635},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C164767435","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q28823","display_name":"Textile","level":2,"score":0.6335723400115967},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2983843516","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11828862","display_name":"Clothing industry","level":3,"score":0.5889371633529663},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C518936366","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q607081","display_name":"Textile industry","level":2,"score":0.5401195287704468},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2989395177","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q12684","display_name":"Fashion industry","level":3,"score":0.4332336187362671},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144133560","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q4830453","display_name":"Business","level":0,"score":0.4303056299686432},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.42621198296546936},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C54750564","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q26643","display_name":"Commerce","level":1,"score":0.40004783868789673},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C205649164","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1071","display_name":"Geography","level":0,"score":0.1470692753791809},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C166957645","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q23498","display_name":"Archaeology","level":1,"score":0.0733805000782013}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":1,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","is_oa":true,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","pdf_url":"https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1757-899X/254/17/172026/pdf","source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4210189194","display_name":"IOP Conference Series Materials Science and Engineering","issn_l":"1757-8981","issn":["1757-8981","1757-899X"],"is_oa":true,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["jufo-1"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320083","host_organization_name":"IOP Publishing","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320083","https://openalex.org/P4310311669"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["IOP Publishing","Institute of Physics"],"type":"conference"},"license":"cc-by","license_id":"https://openalex.org/licenses/cc-by","version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":{"id":"doi:10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","is_oa":true,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899x/254/17/172026","pdf_url":"https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1757-899X/254/17/172026/pdf","source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4210189194","display_name":"IOP Conference Series Materials Science and Engineering","issn_l":"1757-8981","issn":["1757-8981","1757-899X"],"is_oa":true,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["jufo-1"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320083","host_organization_name":"IOP Publishing","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320083","https://openalex.org/P4310311669"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["IOP Publishing","Institute of Physics"],"type":"conference"},"license":"cc-by","license_id":"https://openalex.org/licenses/cc-by","version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering","raw_type":"journal-article"},"sustainable_development_goals":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":true,"pdf":true},"content_urls":{"pdf":"https://content.openalex.org/works/W2767432707.pdf","grobid_xml":"https://content.openalex.org/works/W2767432707.grobid-xml"},"referenced_works_count":3,"referenced_works":["https://openalex.org/W1575046630","https://openalex.org/W2038815778","https://openalex.org/W4230405152"],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W2801513993","https://openalex.org/W7216948652","https://openalex.org/W2762110105","https://openalex.org/W4247371687","https://openalex.org/W3182419582","https://openalex.org/W6887903429","https://openalex.org/W2605892056","https://openalex.org/W2725350433","https://openalex.org/W7119575333","https://openalex.org/W2540045320"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"The":[0,42,65,175,196],"development":[1,179],"of":[2,59,67,74,121,127,163,180,212],"fashion":[3,46,70,140,194,197,219],"seems":[4],"to":[5,97,102,125,155,202],"have":[6,221],"occurred":[7],"in":[8,33,38,55,71,78,114,123,170,191,199,224],"societies":[9],"which":[10],"were":[11,141],"changing,":[12],"where":[13],"that":[14,126],"change":[15],"is":[16,30],"valued":[17],"by":[18],"some":[19],"group":[20],"within":[21],"the":[22,56,60,72,81,145,158,168,178,181,209,213,227],"society,":[23],"and":[24,52,62,105,118,144,161,177,193,216],"social":[25],"mobility":[26],"was":[27,90,95,112,167],"possible.":[28],"Fashion":[29],"not":[31,149],"possible":[32],"totally":[34],"egalitarian":[35],"society":[36],"nor":[37],"a":[39,151,185],"rigid":[40],"hierarchy.":[41],"paper":[43],"presents":[44],"Slovenian/Yugoslavian":[45],"design":[47],"based":[48],"on":[49,138],"local":[50],"industrial":[51],"educational":[53],"capacities":[54],"golden":[57,210],"age":[58,211],"textile":[61,182,192,215],"clothing":[63,217],"branch.":[64],"paradox":[66],"Western":[68,139],"style":[69],"frame":[73],"socialistic":[75],"political":[76],"system":[77],"commented.":[79],"In":[80,208],"late":[82],"1940s,":[83],"Yugoslav":[84,146],"modernity":[85],"transmitted":[86],"through":[87],"fashionable":[88,99],"dress":[89,122,153],"mainly":[91],"representational,":[92],"since":[93],"industry":[94,183,218],"unable":[96],"deliver":[98],"dresses":[100],"due":[101],"post-war":[103],"poverty":[104],"backwardness.":[106],"Yugoslavia's":[107],"different":[108,116],"path":[109],"toward":[110],"socialism":[111],"mirrored":[113],"its":[115],"symbolic":[117],"material":[119],"production":[120,160],"comparison":[124],"other":[128,205],"Eastern":[129,172,206],"European":[130,173,228],"countries.":[131,174,207],"Although":[132],"factories":[133],"had":[134],"been":[135],"nationalised,":[136],"attacks":[137],"never":[142],"intense,":[143],"regime":[147],"did":[148],"establish":[150],"central":[152],"institution":[154],"politically":[156],"direct":[157],"design,":[159],"distribution":[162],"clothes":[164],"as":[165],"it":[166],"case":[169],"most":[171],"restoration":[176],"evoked":[184],"need":[186],"for":[187],"new":[188],"jobs,":[189],"specifically":[190],"design.":[195],"scene":[198],"Slovenia/Yugoslavia":[200],"started":[201],"differ":[203],"from":[204],"national":[214],"collections":[220],"gone":[222],"hand":[223,225],"with":[226],"fashion.":[229]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2024,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-08-04T08:18:43.703281","created_date":"2017-11-17T00:00:00"}