{"id":"https://openalex.org/W2379719975","doi":null,"title":"Producing 'Britishness' : globalisation and the construction of national identity in British fashion","display_name":"Producing 'Britishness' : globalisation and the construction of national identity in British fashion","publication_year":2001,"publication_date":"2001-03-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W2379719975","mag":"2379719975"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"pmh:oai:eprints.glos.ac.uk:3379","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://eprints.glos.ac.uk/3379/1/DX219511_Redacted.pdf","pdf_url":"https://eprints.glos.ac.uk/3379/1/DX219511_Redacted.pdf","source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4306400522","display_name":"Research Repository (University of Gloucestershire)","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/I114203471","host_organization_name":"University of Gloucestershire","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/I114203471"],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"repository"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"acceptedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"","raw_type":"Thesis"},"volume":null,"type":"dissertation","indexed_in":[],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5041223913","display_name":"Alison L. Goodrum","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8454-3456","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8454-3456"]},"institutions":[],"countries":[],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"A Goodrum","raw_affiliation_strings":[],"raw_orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8454-3456","affiliations":[]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":0,"institutions_distinct_count":0,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5041223913"],"corresponding_institution_ids":[],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":null,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":2,"citation_normalized_percentile":null,"cited_by_percentile_year":null,"biblio":{"volume":null,"issue":null,"first_page":null,"last_page":null},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9965999722480774,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9965999722480774,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13413","display_name":"Cultural and Historical Studies","score":0.0012000000569969416,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T10145","display_name":"Consumer Behavior in Brand Consumption and Identification","score":0.000699999975040555,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1406","display_name":"Marketing"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/14","display_name":"Business, Management and Accounting"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/british-fashion","display_name":"British fashion","score":0.8330000042915344},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/british-identity","display_name":"Britishness","score":0.9330000281333923},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/national-identity","display_name":"national identity","score":0.9959999918937683},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/globalization","display_name":"globalization","score":0.8989999890327454},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/paul-smith","display_name":"Paul Smith","score":0.8370000123977661},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/mulberry","display_name":"mulberry","score":0.9990000128746033},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-industry","display_name":"fashion industry","score":0.6790000200271606},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/nation-branding","display_name":"nation branding","score":0.6209999918937683},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/gender-and-national-identity","display_name":"gender and national identity","score":0.7260000109672546},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/class-relations","display_name":"class relations","score":0.8330000042915344},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/corporate-identity","display_name":"corporate identity","score":0.6320000290870667},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-narratives","display_name":"fashion narratives","score":0.5009999871253967},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/anglocentrism","display_name":"Anglocentrism","score":0.5740000009536743},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/androcentrism","display_name":"androcentrism","score":0.8859999775886536}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776642725","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3402148","display_name":"Britishness","level":3,"score":0.971371054649353},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778407155","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1880695","display_name":"National identity","level":3,"score":0.591802716255188},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199033989","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1318295","display_name":"Narrative","level":2,"score":0.5293493866920471},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C158071213","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7257","display_name":"Ideology","level":3,"score":0.5262593030929565},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199776023","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q202875","display_name":"Negotiation","level":2,"score":0.5126520991325378},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2119116","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7181","display_name":"Globalization","level":2,"score":0.5067773461341858},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778355321","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q17079427","display_name":"Identity (music)","level":2,"score":0.4888117015361786},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.48292991518974304},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107038049","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986","display_name":"Aesthetics","level":1,"score":0.43349403142929077},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C29595303","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q165650","display_name":"Media studies","level":1,"score":0.3613799512386322},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107993555","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1662673","display_name":"Gender studies","level":1,"score":0.3245219588279724},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C17744445","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36442","display_name":"Political science","level":0,"score":0.30529266595840454},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199539241","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7748","display_name":"Law","level":1,"score":0.22533822059631348},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.20904818177223206},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C36289849","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q34749","display_name":"Social science","level":1,"score":0.1857290267944336},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C94625758","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7163","display_name":"Politics","level":2,"score":0.15506532788276672},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C124952713","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q8242","display_name":"Literature","level":1,"score":0.135419100522995}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":3,"locations":[{"id":"pmh:oai:eprints.glos.ac.uk:3379","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://eprints.glos.ac.uk/3379/1/DX219511_Redacted.pdf","pdf_url":"https://eprints.glos.ac.uk/3379/1/DX219511_Redacted.pdf","source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4306400522","display_name":"Research Repository (University of Gloucestershire)","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/I114203471","host_organization_name":"University of Gloucestershire","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/I114203471"],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"repository"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"acceptedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"","raw_type":"Thesis"},{"id":"pmh:hdl:10068/541926","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"http://hdl.handle.net/10068/541926","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4377196900","display_name":"OpenGrey (Institut de l'Information Scientifique et Technique)","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/I1295345811","host_organization_name":"Institut de l'Information Scientifique et Technique","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/I1295345811"],"host_organization_lineage_names":[],"type":"repository"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"submittedVersion","is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"","raw_type":"U - Thesis"},{"id":"mag:2379719975","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.343496","pdf_url":null,"source":null,"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":null,"is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":null,"raw_type":null}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":0,"referenced_works":[],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W2503312317","https://openalex.org/W582514577","https://openalex.org/W2531797251","https://openalex.org/W2221625885","https://openalex.org/W7086623391","https://openalex.org/W2747491337","https://openalex.org/W1566602948","https://openalex.org/W2779937779","https://openalex.org/W2279464543","https://openalex.org/W2492325364"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"British":[0,78,96,119,188],"fashion":[1,56,62,97,120],"is":[2,164,195,235],"poised":[3],"amidst":[4],"a":[5,64,124,158,165,244],"clutch":[6],"of":[7,16,37,71,84,93,115,118,160,173,199,232,252,261,274,278],"conflicting":[8],"narratives,":[9],"representations":[10],"and":[11,20,42,57,73,86,102,111,129,147,152,156,184,202,210,247,269,281,299],"\\nideologies.":[12],"Through":[13],"an":[14,32,197,259],"examination":[15],"these":[17,262],"rival":[18],"encounters":[19],"the":[21,35,43,53,69,82,91,108,140,216,221,225],"events":[22],"that":[23,213],"have":[24],"\\ngone":[25],"to":[26,68,75],"generate":[27],"them,":[28],"this":[29],"thesis":[30,226],"gives":[31],"insight":[33],"into":[34],"culture":[36],"contemporary":[38],"\\nfashion,":[39],"its":[40,87,250],"dilemmas":[41],"industry":[44],"it":[45,256,287],"supports.":[46],"\\nIn":[47],"particular,":[48],"my":[49],"discussion":[50],"looks":[51,288],"at":[52,289],"relationship":[54],"between":[55],"national":[58,177],"\\nidentity.":[59],"It":[60],"posits":[61],"as":[63],"site":[65],"central":[66],"both":[67,179],"re-branding":[70],"Britain":[72],"also":[74],"\\ncontestations":[76],"over":[77],"identity":[79],"itself,":[80],"including":[81],"gendering":[83],"Britishness":[85,234,275],"\\nclass":[88],"relations.":[89],"\\nUsing":[90],"cases":[92],"two":[94],"iconic":[95,176],"companies,":[98],"Paul":[99,145,200],"Smith":[100,146,201],"Ltd":[101],"Mulberry":[103,148],"\\nPlc,":[104],"I":[105,138,214],"explore":[106],"how":[107,290],"apparently":[109],"straightforward":[110],"economically":[112],"driven":[113],"process":[114],"\\nthe":[116,230],"globalisation":[117],"is,":[121],"in":[122,143,162,171,190,229,267,296],"fact,":[123],"far":[125],"more":[126,248,297],"culturally":[127],"nuanced":[128],"locally":[130],"\\nembedded":[131],"encounter":[132],"than":[133],"has":[134],"previously":[135],"been":[136],"suggested.":[137],"unpack":[139],"different":[141,192],"ways":[142],"\\nwhich":[144],"go":[149,181],"about":[150,182],"negotiating":[151],"sometimes":[153],"even":[154],"shaping":[155],"\\nmobilising":[157],"sense":[159],"nationness":[161],"what":[163],"rapidly":[166],"globalising":[167],"commercial":[168],"\\nmarketplace.":[169],"For":[170],"spite":[172],"their":[174,186],"shared":[175],"status":[178],"companies":[180],"\\ngenerating":[183],"deploying":[185],"self-confessed":[187],"character":[189],"exceedingly":[191],"\\nways.":[193],"\\nIt":[194],"through":[196,238,249],"exploration":[198],"Mulberry's":[203],"contrasting":[204],"corporate":[205],"\\nstrategies,":[206],"symbolic":[207],"production":[208],"techniques":[209],"product":[211],"profiles":[212],"investigate":[215],"\\ndifferent":[217],"meanings":[218],"afforded":[219],"by":[220],"term":[222],"Britishness.":[223],"Indeed":[224],"contends":[227],"that,":[228],"arena":[231],"fashion,":[233],"characterised":[236],"less":[237],"some":[239,265],"distinct":[240],"essence":[241],"or":[242],"\\nby":[243],"particular":[245],"'look'":[246],"'narratives":[251],"ambiguity'.":[253],"In":[254],"turn,":[255],"suggests":[257],"\\nthat":[258],"understanding":[260],"narratives":[263],"goes":[264],"way":[266],"problematising":[268],"\\ndisrupting":[270],"commonly":[271],"imagined":[272],"notions":[273,292],"borne":[276],"out":[277],"Anglo-centric,":[279],"\\nandrocentric":[280],"bourgeois":[282],"tradition":[283],"and,":[284],"still":[285],"further,":[286],"such":[291],"\\nmight":[293],"be":[294],"re-worked":[295],"multiple":[298],"complex":[300],"ways.":[301]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2023,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2017,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-09-22T06:50:58.402377","created_date":"2016-06-24T00:00:00"}