{"id":"https://openalex.org/W2351992001","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1086/659383","title":"Dior Before Dior","display_name":"Dior Before Dior","publication_year":2011,"publication_date":"2011-02-07","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W2351992001","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1086/659383","mag":"2351992001"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1086/659383","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1086/659383","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1086/659383","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S2734718484","display_name":"West 86th","issn_l":"2153-5531","issn":["2153-5531","2153-5558"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-1","poland-20","russia-white-list-2"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310315672","host_organization_name":"University of Chicago Press","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310315672","https://openalex.org/P4310315690"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["University of Chicago Press","University of Chicago"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"West 86th: A Journal of Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5003128021","display_name":"Lourdes M. Font","orcid":null,"observed_orcids":[]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I883357","display_name":"Fashion Institute of Technology","ror":"https://ror.org/03jwrn541","country_code":"US","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I883357"]}],"countries":["US"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Lourdes Font","raw_affiliation_strings":["Fashion Institute of Technology"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Fashion Institute of Technology","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I883357"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":1,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5003128021"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I883357"],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":15.1178,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":5,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.98519357,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":89,"max":94},"biblio":{"volume":"18","issue":"1","first_page":"26","last_page":"49"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9976000189781189,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9976000189781189,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13413","display_name":"Cultural and Historical Studies","score":0.001500000013038516,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12909","display_name":"French Historical and Cultural Studies","score":9.999999747378752e-05,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1202","display_name":"History"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/christian-dior","display_name":"Christian Dior","score":1.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/new-look","display_name":"New Look","score":0.765999972820282},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/haute-couture","display_name":"haute couture","score":0.7730000019073486},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/women-s-fashion","display_name":"women's fashion","score":0.7749999761581421},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-design-history","display_name":"fashion design history","score":0.5350000262260437},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/1930s-fashion","display_name":"1930s fashion","score":0.7080000042915344},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/1940s-fashion","display_name":"1940s fashion","score":0.9269999861717224},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/silhouette","display_name":"silhouette","score":0.38600000739097595}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778848561","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q207326","display_name":"Summit","level":2,"score":0.7246526479721069},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776445246","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1792644","display_name":"Style (visual arts)","level":2,"score":0.6469981670379639},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.5649089813232422},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C153349607","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36649","display_name":"Visual arts","level":1,"score":0.49704816937446594},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C58640448","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q42515","display_name":"Cartography","level":1,"score":0.04501643776893616},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C205649164","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1071","display_name":"Geography","level":0,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":1,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1086/659383","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1086/659383","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1086/659383","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S2734718484","display_name":"West 86th","issn_l":"2153-5531","issn":["2153-5531","2153-5558"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-1","poland-20","russia-white-list-2"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310315672","host_organization_name":"University of Chicago Press","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310315672","https://openalex.org/P4310315690"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["University of Chicago Press","University of Chicago"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"West 86th: A Journal of Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":0,"referenced_works":[],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W646227718","https://openalex.org/W623400220","https://openalex.org/W593145660","https://openalex.org/W651662087","https://openalex.org/W4400191983","https://openalex.org/W2798341014","https://openalex.org/W2942111033","https://openalex.org/W2726530710","https://openalex.org/W3127623535","https://openalex.org/W2236543193"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"Christian":[0],"Dior":[1,30,94,167],"(1905\u201357)":[2],"is":[3,89,157],"recognized":[4],"as":[5],"one":[6],"of":[7,15,45,61,86,103,106,127,130,142,163,175],"those":[8],"rare":[9],"designers":[10],"who":[11],"changed":[12],"the":[13,23,27,43,46,59,93,104,111,128,139,161],"course":[14],"fashion":[16,28,34],"with":[17],"a":[18,32,150,171],"single":[19],"collection\u2014his":[20],"first,":[21],"christened":[22],"\u201cNew":[24],"Look\u201d":[25],"by":[26],"press.":[29],"created":[31],"postwar":[33],"that":[35,52,68,92],"celebrated":[36],"abundance,":[37],"revived":[38],"French":[39],"luxury":[40],"industries":[41],"and":[42,50,120,145,168],"fortunes":[44],"Parisian":[47],"haute":[48],"couture,":[49],"ensured":[51],"it":[53,156],"would":[54],"reclaim":[55],"its":[56],"place":[57],"at":[58,138,170],"summit":[60],"women\u2019s":[62],"fashion.":[63],"Dress":[64],"historians":[65],"have":[66],"lamented":[67],"Dior\u2019s":[69,131],"career":[70],"was":[71,135],"so":[72],"brief\u2014twenty-two":[73],"collections":[74],"over":[75],"eleven":[76],"years,":[77],"during":[78],"which":[79],"his":[80,176],"style":[81,95],"evolved":[82],"slowly.":[83],"The":[84],"purpose":[85],"this":[87],"article":[88,122],"to":[90,124,159,166],"show":[91],"existed":[96],"long":[97],"before":[98],"1947.":[99],"By":[100,148],"detailed":[101],"examination":[102],"congruence":[105],"certain":[107],"stylistic":[108],"elements":[109],"in":[110],"years":[112],"1935":[113],"through":[114],"1946\u2014specific":[115],"silhouettes,":[116],"materials,":[117],"historical":[118,153],"allusions,":[119],"sources\u2014this":[121],"seeks":[123],"reconstruct":[125],"something":[126],"corpus":[129],"designs":[132,164],"while":[133],"he":[134],"an":[136],"employee":[137],"couture":[140],"houses":[141],"Robert":[143],"Piguet":[144],"Lucien":[146],"Lelong.":[147],"applying":[149],"traditional":[151],"art":[152],"formal":[154],"analysis,":[155],"possible":[158],"expand":[160],"number":[162],"attributed":[165],"arrive":[169],"more":[172],"complete":[173],"picture":[174],"career.":[177]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2023,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2020,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2015,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2013,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2012,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-10-01T08:54:57.152042","created_date":"2016-06-24T00:00:00"}
