{"id":"https://openalex.org/W2084190366","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712558","title":"Fashion in the Eighteenth Century: Some Anglo-French Comparisons","display_name":"Fashion in the Eighteenth Century: Some Anglo-French Comparisons","publication_year":1991,"publication_date":"1991-01-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W2084190366","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712558","mag":"2084190366"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1179/004049691793712558","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712558","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712558","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S148501376","display_name":"Textile History","issn_l":"0040-4969","issn":["0040-4969","1743-2952"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-1","poland-40","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320547","host_organization_name":"Taylor & Francis","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320547","https://openalex.org/P4310320449"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Taylor & Francis","Informa"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Textile History","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5104074402","display_name":"Aileen Ribeiro","orcid":null,"observed_orcids":[]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I107603542","display_name":"Courtauld Institute of Art","ror":"https://ror.org/052411t69","country_code":"GB","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I107603542","https://openalex.org/I124357947"]}],"countries":["GB"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Aileen Ribeiro","raw_affiliation_strings":["Courtauld Institute of Art"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Courtauld Institute of Art","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I107603542"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":1,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5104074402"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I107603542"],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":0.0,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":7,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.24197531,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":false},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":89,"max":96},"biblio":{"volume":"22","issue":"2","first_page":"329","last_page":"345"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":1.0,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":1.0,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13413","display_name":"Cultural and Historical Studies","score":0.0,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13922","display_name":"Historical Art and Culture Studies","score":0.0,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/18th-century-fashion","display_name":"18th-century fashion","score":0.9129999876022339},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/women-s-fashion","display_name":"women's fashion","score":0.75},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/gender-and-fashion","display_name":"gender and fashion","score":0.32899999618530273},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/french-revolution","display_name":"French Revolution","score":0.40400001406669617}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.4793999195098877},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.3767552375793457}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":2,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1179/004049691793712558","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712558","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712558","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S148501376","display_name":"Textile History","issn_l":"0040-4969","issn":["0040-4969","1743-2952"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-1","poland-40","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320547","host_organization_name":"Taylor & Francis","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320547","https://openalex.org/P4310320449"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Taylor & Francis","Informa"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Textile History","raw_type":"journal-article"},{"id":"doi:10.1179/tex.1991.22.2.329","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/tex.1991.22.2.329","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1179/tex.1991.22.2.329","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S148501376","display_name":"Textile History","issn_l":"0040-4969","issn":["0040-4969","1743-2952"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-1","poland-40","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320547","host_organization_name":"Taylor & Francis","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320547","https://openalex.org/P4310320449"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Taylor & Francis","Informa"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Textile History","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"sustainable_development_goals_aurora":[{"display_name":"Gender equality","score":0.6299999952316284,"id":"https://metadata.un.org/sdg/5"}],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":1,"referenced_works":["https://openalex.org/W1492995784"],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W4380083170","https://openalex.org/W2338823410","https://openalex.org/W3010344720","https://openalex.org/W658775943","https://openalex.org/W2492732408","https://openalex.org/W7037481585","https://openalex.org/W2169982190","https://openalex.org/W1990044233","https://openalex.org/W4380033436","https://openalex.org/W2768008589"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"Consumers":[0],"in":[1,12,53,82],"18th-century":[2],"France":[3,104],"and":[4,18,28,68,78,112],"England":[5,83],"used":[6],"fashion":[7,86,114],"more":[8,110],"intensively":[9],"than":[10],"those":[11],"other":[13],"periods":[14],"to":[15,60],"define":[16],"status":[17],"reflect":[19],"cultural":[20],"beliefs.":[21],"In":[22,39],"England,":[23],"the":[24,41,46,49,54,66,76,98,101,107,109,116],"trend":[25],"toward":[26,106],"utilitarian":[27],"informal":[29],"apparel":[30],"was":[31],"embraced":[32],"by":[33,45,75,79],"a":[34,62],"wide":[35],"range":[36],"of":[37,100,115],"classes.":[38],"France,":[40],"opulent":[42],"fashions":[43],"worn":[44],"court":[47],"were":[48,69],"dominant":[50],"influence.":[51],"Those":[52],"English":[55,117],"upper":[56],"classes":[57],"who":[58],"aspired":[59],"be":[61],"la":[63],"mode":[64],"studied":[65],"French":[67,85],"frequently":[70],"ridiculed":[71],"for":[72],"their":[73],"efforts":[74],"press":[77],"artists.":[80],"Many":[81],"perceived":[84],"as":[87,103],"not":[88],"only":[89],"ridiculous":[90],"but":[91],"often":[92],"obscene,":[93],"particularly":[94],"women's":[95],"fashions.":[96],"Toward":[97],"end":[99],"century,":[102],"moved":[105],"Revolution,":[108],"egalitarian":[111],"comfortable":[113],"became":[118],"dominant.":[119]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2024,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2018,"cited_by_count":2}],"updated_date":"2026-10-12T09:40:04.860316","created_date":"2016-06-24T00:00:00"}