{"id":"https://openalex.org/W2061047686","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496914z.00000000039","title":"Evaluating the Manufacturing and Retailing Practices of H. J. & D. Nicoll through a c. 1860 Boy\u2019s Suit","display_name":"Evaluating the Manufacturing and Retailing Practices of H. J. & D. Nicoll through a c. 1860 Boy\u2019s Suit","publication_year":2014,"publication_date":"2014-04-14","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W2061047686","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496914z.00000000039","mag":"2061047686"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1179/0040496914z.00000000039","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496914z.00000000039","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496914z.00000000039","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S148501376","display_name":"Textile History","issn_l":"0040-4969","issn":["0040-4969","1743-2952"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-1","poland-40","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320547","host_organization_name":"Taylor & Francis","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320547","https://openalex.org/P4310320449"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Taylor & Francis","Informa"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Textile History","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5055691771","display_name":"Clare Rose","orcid":"https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3863-0732","observed_orcids":["https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3863-0732"]},"institutions":[],"countries":[],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Clare Rose","raw_affiliation_strings":[],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":0,"institutions_distinct_count":0,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5055691771"],"corresponding_institution_ids":[],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":6.3798,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":2,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.95816408,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":89,"max":94},"biblio":{"volume":"45","issue":"1","first_page":"99","last_page":"118"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9990000128746033,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9990000128746033,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12490","display_name":"Software Engineering and Design Patterns","score":0.0003000000142492354,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/3303","display_name":"Development"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/33","display_name":"Social Sciences"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T10605","display_name":"Historical Economic and Social Studies","score":0.00019999999494757503,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/2002","display_name":"Economics and Econometrics"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/20","display_name":"Economics, Econometrics and Finance"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/boys-clothing","display_name":"boys' clothing","score":0.7229999899864197},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/hand-sewing","display_name":"hand sewing","score":0.578000009059906},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/mass-production","display_name":"mass production","score":0.5809999704360962},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/henry-mayhew","display_name":"Henry Mayhew","score":0.8460000157356262},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/morning-chronicle","display_name":"Morning Chronicle","score":0.5419999957084656},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/retail-marketing","display_name":"retail marketing","score":0.5350000262260437}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C530175646","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11460","display_name":"Clothing","level":2,"score":0.7966583967208862},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776003135","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1333727","display_name":"Publicity","level":2,"score":0.578973650932312},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C112698675","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q37038","display_name":"Advertising","level":1,"score":0.5507925748825073},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C29595303","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q165650","display_name":"Media studies","level":1,"score":0.32533949613571167},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144133560","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q4830453","display_name":"Business","level":0,"score":0.3187449872493744},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.31512129306793213},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.31326115131378174},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C162853370","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q39809","display_name":"Marketing","level":1,"score":0.29210364818573},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C166957645","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q23498","display_name":"Archaeology","level":1,"score":0.17130565643310547}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":1,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1179/0040496914z.00000000039","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496914z.00000000039","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496914z.00000000039","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S148501376","display_name":"Textile History","issn_l":"0040-4969","issn":["0040-4969","1743-2952"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-1","poland-40","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320547","host_organization_name":"Taylor & Francis","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320547","https://openalex.org/P4310320449"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Taylor & Francis","Informa"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Textile History","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"sustainable_development_goals_aurora":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":8,"referenced_works":["https://openalex.org/W565672585","https://openalex.org/W612080016","https://openalex.org/W643284470","https://openalex.org/W1544060017","https://openalex.org/W1561963010","https://openalex.org/W2052666001","https://openalex.org/W2333207207","https://openalex.org/W2798580174"],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W640270306","https://openalex.org/W3037515470","https://openalex.org/W4378377285","https://openalex.org/W2783409731","https://openalex.org/W2081573421","https://openalex.org/W1523930503","https://openalex.org/W3037579570","https://openalex.org/W3037745354","https://openalex.org/W2042699894","https://openalex.org/W3037082615"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"A":[0,98],"boy\u2019s":[1],"suit":[2,82,102],"of":[3,13,26,60,80,92,100,124,130,148],"fawn":[4],"wool":[5],"sold":[6],"by":[7,33],"H.":[8],"J.":[9],"&":[10],"D.":[11],"Nicoll":[12,64,115],"London,":[14],"dated":[15],"c.":[16],"1860,":[17],"in":[18,47,69,75,153],"the":[19,29,61,81,90,101,112,119,128,146,149],"Fashion":[20],"Museum,":[21],"Bath,":[22],"raises":[23],"a":[24,36,44,133],"number":[25],"issues.":[27],"Combining":[28],"long":[30],"trousers":[31],"worn":[32],"adolescents":[34],"with":[35,39,54,68,103,108],"jacket":[37],"associated":[38],"younger":[40],"boys,":[41],"it":[42,57],"marks":[43],"turning":[45],"point":[46],"age-related":[48],"dress":[49],"codes.":[50],"Mass":[51],"produced":[52],"but":[53],"hand":[55],"stitching,":[56],"presents":[58],"evidence":[59],"exploitative":[62],"practices":[63],"had":[65],"been":[66],"charged":[67],"Henry":[70],"Mayhew\u2019s":[71],"Morning":[72],"Chronicle":[73],"letters":[74],"1850.":[76],"The":[77,122],"prominent":[78],"labelling":[79],"relates":[83],"to":[84,89],"Nicoll\u2019s":[85],"publicity":[86],"strategies":[87],"and":[88,107,127,135],"importance":[91],"boys\u2019":[93],"clothing":[94,151],"for":[95,144],"ready-to-wear":[96,150],"retailers.":[97],"comparison":[99],"other":[104],"surviving":[105],"garments":[106],"marketing":[109],"documents":[110],"illuminates":[111],"way":[113],"that":[114],"positioned":[116],"itself":[117],"within":[118],"retail":[120],"market.":[121],"rarity":[123],"this":[125,139],"survival":[126],"scarcity":[129],"information":[131],"on":[132],"high-profile":[134],"long-lasting":[136],"retailer":[137],"make":[138],"an":[140],"important":[141],"case":[142],"study":[143],"investigating":[145],"origins":[147],"trade":[152],"Britain.":[154]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2015,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2013,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-08-21T09:56:20.448147","created_date":"2016-06-24T00:00:00"}
