{"id":"https://openalex.org/W2044737443","doi":null,"title":"Fashion and eroticism : ideals of feminine beauty from the Victorian era to the Jazz Age","display_name":"Fashion and eroticism : ideals of feminine beauty from the Victorian era to the Jazz Age","publication_year":1985,"publication_date":"1985-01-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W2044737443","mag":"2044737443"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"pmh:oai:bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr:p::usmarcdef_0000546386","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"http://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0000546386","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4306463708","display_name":"Oxford University Press eBooks","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311648","host_organization_name":"Oxford University Press","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311648","https://openalex.org/P4310311647"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Oxford University Press","University of Oxford"],"type":"ebook platform"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"submittedVersion","is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"","raw_type":"printed monograph"},"volume":null,"type":"book","indexed_in":[],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5112555120","display_name":"Valerie Steele","orcid":null,"observed_orcids":[]},"institutions":[],"countries":[],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Valerie Steele","raw_affiliation_strings":[],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":0,"institutions_distinct_count":0,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5112555120"],"corresponding_institution_ids":[],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":0.0,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":110,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.50909091,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":false},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":88,"max":99},"biblio":{"volume":null,"issue":null,"first_page":null,"last_page":null},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9980000257492065,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9980000257492065,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12275","display_name":"Gender and Feminist Studies","score":0.00039999998989515007,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/3318","display_name":"Gender Studies"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/33","display_name":"Social Sciences"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13413","display_name":"Cultural and Historical Studies","score":0.0003000000142492354,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-history","display_name":"fashion history","score":0.8799999952316284},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/eroticism","display_name":"eroticism","score":0.9900000095367432},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/female-beauty","display_name":"female beauty","score":0.8560000061988831},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/victorian-women","display_name":"Victorian women","score":0.8700000047683716},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/corsets","display_name":"corsets","score":0.5929999947547913},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/women-s-clothing","display_name":"women's clothing","score":0.7149999737739563},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/sexuality","display_name":"sexuality","score":0.6819999814033508},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/women-s-history","display_name":"women's history","score":0.5759999752044678},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/new-look","display_name":"New Look","score":0.8650000095367432},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/roaring-twenties","display_name":"Jazz Age","score":0.5720000267028809},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/women-s-emancipation","display_name":"women's emancipation","score":0.5239999890327454},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/costume-collection","display_name":"costume collection","score":0.414000004529953},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/sexual-symbolism","display_name":"sexual symbolism","score":0.625}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2777128807","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3519050","display_name":"Eroticism","level":3,"score":0.9446126818656921},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2780620123","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7242","display_name":"Beauty","level":2,"score":0.8011876940727234},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2781385186","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q89640","display_name":"Consumerism","level":2,"score":0.5347005724906921},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.5104776620864868},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776639384","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q840396","display_name":"Ideal (ethics)","level":2,"score":0.46395960450172424},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107993555","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1662673","display_name":"Gender studies","level":1,"score":0.4201889932155609},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C53813258","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q154136","display_name":"Human sexuality","level":2,"score":0.41063880920410156},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.3963456153869629},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107038049","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986","display_name":"Aesthetics","level":1,"score":0.35675540566444397},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C124952713","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q8242","display_name":"Literature","level":1,"score":0.3528478741645813},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C52119013","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q50637","display_name":"Art history","level":1,"score":0.32900190353393555},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.2770775556564331},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C17744445","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36442","display_name":"Political science","level":0,"score":0.14156943559646606},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199539241","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7748","display_name":"Law","level":1,"score":0.1267317533493042}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":2,"locations":[{"id":"pmh:oai:bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr:p::usmarcdef_0000546386","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"http://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0000546386","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4306463708","display_name":"Oxford University Press eBooks","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311648","host_organization_name":"Oxford University Press","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311648","https://openalex.org/P4310311647"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Oxford University Press","University of Oxford"],"type":"ebook platform"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"submittedVersion","is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"","raw_type":"printed monograph"},{"id":"mag:2044737443","doi":null,"is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"http://ci.nii.ac.jp/ncid/BA19716566","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S4306463708","display_name":"Oxford University Press eBooks","issn_l":null,"issn":null,"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":[],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310311648","host_organization_name":"Oxford University Press","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310311648","https://openalex.org/P4310311647"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Oxford University Press","University of Oxford"],"type":"ebook platform"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":null,"is_accepted":false,"is_published":false,"raw_source_name":"Oxford University Press eBooks","raw_type":null}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"pdf":false,"grobid_xml":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":0,"referenced_works":[],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W85823012","https://openalex.org/W2566626346","https://openalex.org/W3092743547","https://openalex.org/W2272837495","https://openalex.org/W4235155765","https://openalex.org/W2735452036","https://openalex.org/W3035083942","https://openalex.org/W2078532379","https://openalex.org/W1541707771","https://openalex.org/W4407107126"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"The":[0],"traditional":[1],"image":[2],"of":[3,18,62,70,102,117,138,147,153,193,197,208,236,240],"the":[4,29,38,56,59,68,107,135,144,175,194,206,213,228,234,243],"Victorian":[5,60,86,198],"woman":[6],"presents":[7],"her":[8,13,19,219],"as":[9,99,151],"strait-laced":[10],"and":[11,22,33,65,72,124,131,149,168,181,185,210,226],"prudish,":[12],"clothing":[14],"an":[15,96,100,114,154],"outward":[16],"sign":[17],"sexual":[20,126],"repression":[21],"exploitation.":[23],"This":[24],"situation":[25],"supposedly":[26],"persisted":[27],"until":[28],"Women's":[30],"Rights":[31],"Movement":[32],"World":[34],"War":[35],"I":[36],"forced":[37],"world":[39,146],"to":[40,94,205],"acknowledge":[41],"that":[42,53,67],"women":[43,209],"were":[44],"liberated":[45],"individuals":[46],"with":[47],"legs.":[48],"Yet":[49],"Valerie":[50,216],"steele":[51,217],"demonstrates":[52],"eroticism":[54],"formed":[55],"basis":[57],"for":[58],"ideal":[61,98],"feminine":[63],"beauty":[64,71],"fashion--indeed,":[66],"concepts":[69],"fashion":[73,148],"are":[74,160],"essentially":[75],"erotic.":[76],"She":[77],"shows":[78,133],"that,":[79],"far":[80],"from":[81,142,221],"being":[82],"passive":[83],"sex":[84],"objects,":[85],"women,":[87],"like":[88],"their":[89,103],"modern":[90,140],"counterparts,":[91],"themselves":[92],"chose":[93],"emulate":[95],"erotic":[97],"aspect":[101],"own":[104],"self-fulfillment.":[105],"Even":[106],"notorious":[108],"corset":[109],"was":[110,227],"neither":[111],"fetishistic":[112],"nor":[113],"unhealthy":[115],"instrument":[116],"torture,":[118],"she":[119],"argues,":[120],"although":[121],"its":[122],"comlex":[123],"ambivalent":[125],"symbolism":[127],"aroused":[128],"controversy.":[129],"Fashion":[130],"Eroticism":[132,186],"how":[134],"New":[136],"Look":[137],"sexy":[139],"naturally":[141],"within":[143],"pre-war":[145],"not":[150,188],"part":[152],"intifashion":[155],"movement.":[156],"Steele's":[158],"conclusions":[159],"based":[161],"on":[162],"prodigious":[163],"documentary":[164],"evidence,":[165],"including":[166],"visual":[167],"material":[169],"research,":[170],"in":[171,174,224],"costume":[172],"collections":[173],"United":[176],"States,":[177],"Great":[178],"Britain,":[179],"Europe,":[180],"even":[182],"Japan.":[183],"Fashiona":[184],"is":[187,201],"only":[189],"a":[190,202],"radical":[191],"revision":[192],"Conventional":[195],"understanding":[196],"fashion;":[199],"it":[200],"major":[203],"contribution":[204],"histyory":[207],"sexuality.":[211],"About":[212],"Author:":[214],"received":[218],"Ph.D.":[220],"Yale":[222],"University":[223],"1983,":[225],"1984":[229],"First":[230],"Ladies'":[231],"Fellow":[232],"at":[233],"Division":[235],"Costume,":[237],"National":[238],"Museum":[239],"American":[241],"History,":[242],"Smithsonian":[244],"Institution.":[245]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2025,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2023,"cited_by_count":4},{"year":2021,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2020,"cited_by_count":4},{"year":2019,"cited_by_count":3},{"year":2018,"cited_by_count":3},{"year":2017,"cited_by_count":3},{"year":2016,"cited_by_count":3},{"year":2015,"cited_by_count":5},{"year":2014,"cited_by_count":7},{"year":2013,"cited_by_count":4},{"year":2012,"cited_by_count":5}],"updated_date":"2026-09-06T09:10:53.072986","created_date":"2016-06-24T00:00:00"}