{"id":"https://openalex.org/W2015880403","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712576","title":"Order and Fashion in Clothes: The King, His Household, and the City of London at the End of the Fifteenth Century","display_name":"Order and Fashion in Clothes: The King, His Household, and the City of London at the End of the Fifteenth Century","publication_year":1991,"publication_date":"1991-01-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W2015880403","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712576","mag":"2015880403"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1179/004049691793712576","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712576","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712576","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S148501376","display_name":"Textile History","issn_l":"0040-4969","issn":["0040-4969","1743-2952"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-1","poland-40","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320547","host_organization_name":"Taylor & Francis","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320547","https://openalex.org/P4310320449"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Taylor & Francis","Informa"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Textile History","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5081709698","display_name":"Anne F. Sutton","orcid":null,"observed_orcids":[]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I4210159808","display_name":"Mercers\u2019 Company (United Kingdom)","ror":"https://ror.org/05h4fcj88","country_code":"GB","type":"company","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I4210159808"]}],"countries":["GB"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Anne F. Sutton","raw_affiliation_strings":["Mercer's Company"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Mercer's Company","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I4210159808"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":1,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5081709698"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I4210159808"],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":0.0,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":1,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.20561167,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":false},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":89,"max":94},"biblio":{"volume":"22","issue":"2","first_page":"253","last_page":"276"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9994999766349792,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9994999766349792,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T10595","display_name":"Medieval Literature and History","score":0.0003000000142492354,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1205","display_name":"Classics"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13167","display_name":"Historical, Literary, and Cultural Studies","score":0.0,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1205","display_name":"Classics"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/clothing","display_name":"clothing","score":0.5109999775886536},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/dress-history","display_name":"dress history","score":0.6570000052452087},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/sumptuary-legislation","display_name":"sumptuary legislation","score":0.8989999890327454},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/royal-household","display_name":"royal household","score":0.6499999761581421},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/corporation-of-london","display_name":"Corporation of London","score":0.7559999823570251},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/professional-dress","display_name":"professional dress","score":0.7570000290870667},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion","display_name":"fashion","score":0.5450000166893005},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/henry-vi","display_name":"Henry VI","score":0.718999981880188},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/edward-iv","display_name":"Edward IV","score":0.9990000128746033},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/henry-vii","display_name":"Henry VII","score":1.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fifteenth-century-england","display_name":"fifteenth-century England","score":0.8429999947547913}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C530175646","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11460","display_name":"Clothing","level":2,"score":0.9357218146324158},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2781119825","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q2163436","display_name":"Fifteenth","level":2,"score":0.8113501667976379},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778348171","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q167037","display_name":"Corporation","level":2,"score":0.6657642126083374},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C182306322","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1779371","display_name":"Order (exchange)","level":2,"score":0.6368710994720459},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C198082294","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3399648","display_name":"Position (finance)","level":2,"score":0.5321229100227356},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2778137410","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q2732820","display_name":"Government (linguistics)","level":2,"score":0.5298751592636108},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2777351106","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q49371","display_name":"Legislation","level":2,"score":0.5045210123062134},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199539241","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7748","display_name":"Law","level":1,"score":0.41637343168258667},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.3860069215297699},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.32225579023361206},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C74916050","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q841090","display_name":"Classics","level":1,"score":0.20280805230140686},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C17744445","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36442","display_name":"Political science","level":0,"score":0.19360211491584778},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144133560","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q4830453","display_name":"Business","level":0,"score":0.15989607572555542},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C138885662","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q5891","display_name":"Philosophy","level":0,"score":0.06844720244407654},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C41895202","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q8162","display_name":"Linguistics","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C10138342","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q43015","display_name":"Finance","level":1,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":1,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1179/004049691793712576","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712576","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793712576","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S148501376","display_name":"Textile History","issn_l":"0040-4969","issn":["0040-4969","1743-2952"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-1","poland-40","russia-white-list-2","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320547","host_organization_name":"Taylor & Francis","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320547","https://openalex.org/P4310320449"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Taylor & Francis","Informa"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Textile History","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":7,"referenced_works":["https://openalex.org/W572243069","https://openalex.org/W650230244","https://openalex.org/W1483476045","https://openalex.org/W1978473815","https://openalex.org/W1998120142","https://openalex.org/W2005449574","https://openalex.org/W2080362804"],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W4236072655","https://openalex.org/W1597668604","https://openalex.org/W4247575675","https://openalex.org/W7101141810","https://openalex.org/W4313590099","https://openalex.org/W4388372830","https://openalex.org/W1561114001","https://openalex.org/W4237075407","https://openalex.org/W1520599572","https://openalex.org/W2625101036"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"The":[0,14,82],"general":[1],"attitude":[2],"toward":[3],"excess":[4],"in":[5,7,29,78],"apparel":[6,34],"15th-century":[8],"England":[9],"was":[10,17,42,85],"one":[11],"of":[12,50,56,90],"disapproval.":[13],"king,":[15],"however,":[16],"expected":[18],"to":[19,45,75,96,109],"adorn":[20],"himself,":[21],"which":[22],"inspired":[23],"respect":[24],"for":[25],"the":[26,30,51,54,59,86,91,97,118],"government.":[27],"Subjects":[28],"lower":[31],"ranks":[32],"wore":[33,112],"that":[35],"defined":[36],"their":[37,106],"social":[38,113],"position.":[39],"Sumptuary":[40],"legislation":[41],"even":[43],"passed":[44],"reinforce":[46],"this":[47,79],"behavior.":[48],"Documents":[49],"Great":[52,83],"Wardrobe,":[53],"Corporation":[55],"London,":[57],"and":[58,61,70,88,105,108],"Mercers'":[60],"Merchant":[62],"Taylors'":[63],"Companies,":[64],"as":[65,67],"well":[66],"wills,":[68],"inventories,":[69],"letters,":[71],"have":[72],"been":[73],"used":[74],"examine":[76],"dress":[77,116],"ordered":[80],"society.":[81],"Wardrobe":[84],"storehouse":[87],"manufactory":[89],"royal":[92],"household.":[93],"Apparel":[94],"supplied":[95],"kings":[98],"(Henry":[99],"VI,":[100],"Edward":[101],"IV,":[102],"Henry":[103],"VII)":[104],"households":[107],"groups":[110],"who":[111],"or":[114],"professional":[115],"during":[117],"15th":[119],"century":[120],"is":[121],"detailed.":[122]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2014,"cited_by_count":1}],"updated_date":"2026-08-15T07:11:24.734988","created_date":"2016-06-24T00:00:00"}