{"id":"https://openalex.org/W1965211607","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-0424.00278","title":"Fashioning the American Man: The Arrow Collar Man, 1907\u20131931","display_name":"Fashioning the American Man: The Arrow Collar Man, 1907\u20131931","publication_year":2002,"publication_date":"2002-11-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W1965211607","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-0424.00278","mag":"1965211607"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.1111/1468-0424.00278","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-0424.00278","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-0424.00278","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S100249970","display_name":"Gender & History","issn_l":"0953-5233","issn":["0953-5233","1468-0424"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-3","norway-1","poland-100","russia-white-list-1","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320595","host_organization_name":"Wiley","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320595"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Wiley"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Gender &amp; History","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5048435937","display_name":"Carole Turbin","orcid":null,"observed_orcids":[]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I88081825","display_name":"Empire State University","ror":"https://ror.org/03sg2bq51","country_code":"US","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I88081825"]}],"countries":["US"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Carole Turbin","raw_affiliation_strings":["SUNY/Empire State College"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"SUNY/Empire State College","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I88081825"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":1,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5048435937"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I88081825"],"apc_list":{"value":3350,"currency":"USD","value_usd":3350},"apc_paid":null,"fwci":4.4236,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":30,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.94250618,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":88,"max":99},"biblio":{"volume":"14","issue":"3","first_page":"470","last_page":"491"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13025","display_name":"American History and Culture","score":0.6723999977111816,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1406","display_name":"Marketing"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/14","display_name":"Business, Management and Accounting"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13025","display_name":"American History and Culture","score":0.6723999977111816,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1406","display_name":"Marketing"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/14","display_name":"Business, Management and Accounting"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.18160000443458557,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12908","display_name":"Media, Gender, and Advertising","score":0.11620000004768372,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/3318","display_name":"Gender Studies"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/33","display_name":"Social Sciences"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/new-man","display_name":"new man","score":0.7609999775886536},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/masculinity","display_name":"masculinity","score":0.8669999837875366},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/men-s-fashion","display_name":"men's fashion","score":0.6549999713897705},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/advertising-images","display_name":"advertising imagery","score":0.6389999985694885},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/visual-culture","display_name":"visual culture","score":0.7979999780654907},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/consumerism","display_name":"consumerism","score":0.9580000042915344},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/social-class","display_name":"social class","score":0.5210000276565552},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/popular-culture","display_name":"popular culture","score":0.7260000109672546},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/american-identity","display_name":"American identity","score":0.46799999475479126},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/early-20th-century","display_name":"early 20th century","score":0.5559999942779541}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2780339515","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3074698","display_name":"Arrow","level":2,"score":0.9442657828330994},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2781448223","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1108904","display_name":"Collar","level":2,"score":0.8094378709793091},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C3017898109","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1191714","display_name":"Blue collar","level":2,"score":0.6255104541778564},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C56273599","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3122841","display_name":"White (mutation)","level":3,"score":0.5354533195495605},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776359362","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q2145286","display_name":"Representation (politics)","level":3,"score":0.5108851790428162},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.4169691503047943},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C95457728","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q309","display_name":"History","level":0,"score":0.41209641098976135},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107993555","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1662673","display_name":"Gender studies","level":1,"score":0.35439008474349976},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107038049","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986","display_name":"Aesthetics","level":1,"score":0.3480694890022278},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.30041536688804626},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199539241","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7748","display_name":"Law","level":1,"score":0.2648395299911499},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C17744445","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36442","display_name":"Political science","level":0,"score":0.19612428545951843},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C127413603","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11023","display_name":"Engineering","level":0,"score":0.12909886240959167},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C94625758","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7163","display_name":"Politics","level":2,"score":0.0936431884765625},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C162324750","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q8134","display_name":"Economics","level":0,"score":0.0926893949508667},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C4249254","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3044431","display_name":"Demographic economics","level":1,"score":0.0747254490852356},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C55493867","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7094","display_name":"Biochemistry","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C78519656","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q101333","display_name":"Mechanical engineering","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199360897","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q9143","display_name":"Programming language","level":1,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C41008148","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21198","display_name":"Computer science","level":0,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C185592680","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q2329","display_name":"Chemistry","level":0,"score":0.0},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C104317684","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7187","display_name":"Gene","level":2,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":1,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.1111/1468-0424.00278","doi":"https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-0424.00278","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-0424.00278","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S100249970","display_name":"Gender & History","issn_l":"0953-5233","issn":["0953-5233","1468-0424"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-3","norway-1","poland-100","russia-white-list-1","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310320595","host_organization_name":"Wiley","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310320595"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Wiley"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Gender &amp; History","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"sustainable_development_goals_aurora":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"pdf":false,"grobid_xml":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":0,"referenced_works":[],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W2030369907","https://openalex.org/W3011651344","https://openalex.org/W4301428043","https://openalex.org/W2101141484","https://openalex.org/W1511785983","https://openalex.org/W429997081","https://openalex.org/W2095030581","https://openalex.org/W4234679948","https://openalex.org/W7039460411","https://openalex.org/W2008922938"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"This":[0],"essay":[1],"is":[2,72,129],"about":[3],"the":[4,9,23,40,66,75,85,103,107,122,135],"Arrow":[5,27,41,69],"Man,":[6],"one":[7],"of":[8,22,46,74,94,97,116,121,131],"most":[10,53],"successful":[11],"advertising":[12],"images":[13],"in":[14,61,77,134],"early":[15,108],"twentieth\u2013century":[16],"America,":[17],"and":[18,56,63,80,88,99,139,143],"a":[19,32,43,49,114],"visual":[20,87],"representation":[21],"New":[24],"Man.":[25],"The":[26,68],"Man":[28],"was":[29],"created":[30],"by":[31,84],"noted":[33],"artist,":[34],"J.":[35],"C.":[36],"Leyendecker,":[37],"to":[38],"sell":[39],"collar,":[42],"new":[44,86,137],"version":[45],"detachable":[47],"collars,":[48],"wardrobe":[50],"staple":[51],"for":[52],"US":[54],"men":[55,60],"all":[57],"but":[58],"working\u2013class":[59],"Britain":[62],"Europe":[64],"since":[65],"1840s.":[67],"Man\u2019s":[70],"story":[71,128],"part":[73,130],"transformations":[76],"masculine":[78],"ideals":[79],"physical":[81],"appearance,":[82],"heightened":[83],"consumer":[89],"culture.":[90,147],"He":[91],"carried":[92],"messages":[93],"men\u2019s":[95],"self\u2013management":[96],"appearance":[98],"public":[100],"performance":[101],"from":[102,113],"nineteenth":[104],"century":[105],"into":[106,119],"twentieth,":[109],"where":[110],"it":[111],"changed":[112],"mark":[115],"European":[117],"gentility":[118],"that":[120],"typically":[123],"American":[124,145],"white\u2013collar":[125],"man.":[126],"His":[127],"fundamental":[132],"shifts":[133],"US:":[136],"occupational":[138],"social":[140],"class":[141],"configurations":[142],"emerging":[144],"popular":[146]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2023,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2021,"cited_by_count":2},{"year":2020,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2019,"cited_by_count":13},{"year":2018,"cited_by_count":2},{"year":2015,"cited_by_count":2},{"year":2014,"cited_by_count":2},{"year":2012,"cited_by_count":3}],"updated_date":"2026-10-30T12:39:25.321706","created_date":"2016-06-24T00:00:00"}
