{"id":"https://openalex.org/W1964112447","doi":"https://doi.org/10.2752/136270497779754543","title":"A Note: A Charismatic Art: The Balance of Ingratiation and Outrage in Contemporary Fashion","display_name":"A Note: A Charismatic Art: The Balance of Ingratiation and Outrage in Contemporary Fashion","publication_year":1997,"publication_date":"1997-02-01","ids":{"openalex":"https://openalex.org/W1964112447","doi":"https://doi.org/10.2752/136270497779754543","mag":"1964112447"},"language":"en","primary_location":{"id":"doi:10.2752/136270497779754543","doi":"https://doi.org/10.2752/136270497779754543","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.2752/136270497779754543","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S55783644","display_name":"Fashion Theory","issn_l":"1362-704X","issn":["1362-704X","1751-7419"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-2","poland-70","russia-white-list-1","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310319847","host_organization_name":"Routledge","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310319847","https://openalex.org/P4310320547"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Routledge","Taylor & Francis"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Fashion Theory","raw_type":"journal-article"},"volume":null,"type":"article","indexed_in":["crossref"],"open_access":{"is_oa":false,"oa_status":"closed","oa_url":null,"any_repository_has_fulltext":false},"authorships":[{"author_position":"first","author":{"id":"https://openalex.org/A5111752603","display_name":"Richard Mart\u00edn","orcid":null,"observed_orcids":[]},"institutions":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/I1286891280","display_name":"Metropolitan Museum of Art","ror":"https://ror.org/03cm0t424","country_code":"US","type":"archive","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I1286891280"]},{"id":"https://openalex.org/I57206974","display_name":"New York University","ror":"https://ror.org/0190ak572","country_code":"US","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I57206974"]},{"id":"https://openalex.org/I78577930","display_name":"Columbia University","ror":"https://ror.org/00hj8s172","country_code":"US","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I78577930"]},{"id":"https://openalex.org/I883357","display_name":"Fashion Institute of Technology","ror":"https://ror.org/03jwrn541","country_code":"US","type":"education","lineage":["https://openalex.org/I883357"]}],"countries":["US"],"is_corresponding":true,"raw_author_name":"Richard Martin","raw_affiliation_strings":["Richard Martin, Curator of The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, is Adjunct Professor of Art History and Archaeology at Columbia University and Adjunct Professor of Art at New York University. From 1974\u20131988, he was Editor of Arts Magazine, and for twenty years he taught art history at the Fashion Institute of Technology where he also served as Executive Director of the Shirley Goodman Resource Center and Executive Director of the Educational Foundation for the Fashion Industries"],"raw_orcid":null,"affiliations":[{"raw_affiliation_string":"Richard Martin, Curator of The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, is Adjunct Professor of Art History and Archaeology at Columbia University and Adjunct Professor of Art at New York University. From 1974\u20131988, he was Editor of Arts Magazine, and for twenty years he taught art history at the Fashion Institute of Technology where he also served as Executive Director of the Shirley Goodman Resource Center and Executive Director of the Educational Foundation for the Fashion Industries","institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I1286891280","https://openalex.org/I57206974","https://openalex.org/I78577930","https://openalex.org/I883357"]}]}],"institutions":[],"countries_distinct_count":1,"institutions_distinct_count":4,"corresponding_author_ids":["https://openalex.org/A5111752603"],"corresponding_institution_ids":["https://openalex.org/I1286891280","https://openalex.org/I57206974","https://openalex.org/I78577930","https://openalex.org/I883357"],"apc_list":null,"apc_paid":null,"fwci":11.1085,"has_fulltext":false,"cited_by_count":5,"citation_normalized_percentile":{"value":0.96667735,"is_in_top_1_percent":false,"is_in_top_10_percent":true},"cited_by_percentile_year":{"min":89,"max":95},"biblio":{"volume":"1","issue":"1","first_page":"91","last_page":"104"},"is_retracted":false,"is_paratext":false,"is_xpac":false,"primary_topic":{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9848999977111816,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},"topics":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12514","display_name":"Fashion and Cultural Textiles","score":0.9848999977111816,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1209","display_name":"Museology"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T13413","display_name":"Cultural and Historical Studies","score":0.014299999922513962,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}},{"id":"https://openalex.org/T12444","display_name":"Art, Politics, and Modernism","score":9.999999747378752e-05,"subfield":{"id":"https://openalex.org/subfields/1213","display_name":"Visual Arts and Performing Arts"},"field":{"id":"https://openalex.org/fields/12","display_name":"Arts and Humanities"},"domain":{"id":"https://openalex.org/domains/2","display_name":"Social Sciences"}}],"keywords":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/contemporary-fashion","display_name":"contemporary fashion","score":0.8289999961853027},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/charisma","display_name":"charisma","score":0.5870000123977661},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/ingratiation","display_name":"ingratiation","score":0.8939999938011169},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/outrage","display_name":"outrage","score":0.9380000233650208},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-aesthetics","display_name":"fashion aesthetics","score":0.6380000114440918},{"id":"https://openalex.org/keywords/fashion-criticism","display_name":"fashion criticism","score":0.335999995470047}],"concepts":[{"id":"https://openalex.org/C2776876785","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7112875","display_name":"Outrage","level":3,"score":0.9911303520202637},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C32772713","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q118157","display_name":"Charisma","level":2,"score":0.8615431785583496},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C10927478","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q445546","display_name":"Balance theory","level":2,"score":0.6515756845474243},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C168031717","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1530280","display_name":"Balance (ability)","level":2,"score":0.6455388069152832},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C76717236","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1063251","display_name":"Charismatic authority","level":3,"score":0.48796528577804565},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C107038049","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q35986","display_name":"Aesthetics","level":1,"score":0.4766469895839691},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C142362112","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q735","display_name":"Art","level":0,"score":0.4377594292163849},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C144024400","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q21201","display_name":"Sociology","level":0,"score":0.4070281684398651},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C15744967","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q9418","display_name":"Psychology","level":0,"score":0.24022218585014343},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C17744445","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36442","display_name":"Political science","level":0,"score":0.19464394450187683},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C36289849","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q34749","display_name":"Social science","level":1,"score":0.18219566345214844},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C199539241","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7748","display_name":"Law","level":1,"score":0.1165291965007782},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C94625758","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7163","display_name":"Politics","level":2,"score":0.05618324875831604},{"id":"https://openalex.org/C169760540","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q207011","display_name":"Neuroscience","level":1,"score":0.0}],"mesh":[],"locations_count":1,"locations":[{"id":"doi:10.2752/136270497779754543","doi":"https://doi.org/10.2752/136270497779754543","is_oa":false,"landing_page_url":"https://doi.org/10.2752/136270497779754543","pdf_url":null,"source":{"id":"https://openalex.org/S55783644","display_name":"Fashion Theory","issn_l":"1362-704X","issn":["1362-704X","1751-7419"],"is_oa":false,"is_in_doaj":false,"is_core":false,"listed_in":["anvur-class-a","anvur-scientific","erih-plus","jufo-2","norway-2","poland-70","russia-white-list-1","vabb-shw"],"host_organization":"https://openalex.org/P4310319847","host_organization_name":"Routledge","host_organization_lineage":["https://openalex.org/P4310319847","https://openalex.org/P4310320547"],"host_organization_lineage_names":["Routledge","Taylor & Francis"],"type":"journal"},"license":null,"license_id":null,"version":"publishedVersion","is_accepted":true,"is_published":true,"raw_source_name":"Fashion Theory","raw_type":"journal-article"}],"best_oa_location":null,"sustainable_development_goals":[],"study_designs":[],"awards":[],"funders":[],"has_content":{"grobid_xml":false,"pdf":false},"content_urls":null,"referenced_works_count":0,"referenced_works":[],"related_works":["https://openalex.org/W3109789778","https://openalex.org/W2253525202","https://openalex.org/W2077867443","https://openalex.org/W2007618145","https://openalex.org/W2200935243","https://openalex.org/W2582497313","https://openalex.org/W2973985742","https://openalex.org/W2613222068","https://openalex.org/W2203160351","https://openalex.org/W1966325488"],"abstract_inverted_index":{"(1997).":[0],"A":[1,3],"Note:":[2],"Charismatic":[4],"Art:":[5],"The":[6],"Balance":[7],"of":[8],"Ingratiation":[9],"and":[10],"Outrage":[11],"in":[12],"Contemporary":[13],"Fashion.":[14],"Fashion":[15],"Theory:":[16],"Vol.":[17],"1,":[18,20],"No.":[19],"pp.":[21],"91-104.":[22]},"counts_by_year":[{"year":2022,"cited_by_count":1},{"year":2021,"cited_by_count":2}],"updated_date":"2026-10-01T08:54:57.152042","created_date":"2016-06-24T00:00:00"}
